CityTurbo.com

I had one, then it got stolen, so i made a new one. It's not that hard, I still have the side pieces that the tray clipped into if you want photos, they're the most complicated parts.

Quite possibly the two bulbs that light it have blown. see http://www.cityturbo.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2271 for instructions on how to get the instrument cluster out. Test the bulbs then, and if they still work then the problem may be more complicated. From memory the power to the bulbs comes vi...

The city isn't the safest car ever made either...
Maybe a rollcage would be a good idea, even for a daily driver.

Thats right, so if you have a rust problem that YOU aren't worried about, but are concerned you might fail for, you could always just paint over it before you get your warrant.
I may have used that trick one or two times...

$2000 For body kit
$500 -1000 for shipping it over.
$$$??? for fitting it and painting.
$1000-2000 for rims
??? Tyres.

It's AU$2000, so make it more like NZ$2500, and that's without a fiberglass or carbon fiber bonnet.

I reckon it's still worth it.

Ah. I have just cracked the gasket off it and scrapped back the brown built up crud to reveal....
88 C.
Makes sense.

No, I lied. I've found the receipt and it was $30 for the thermostat 19300-PB2-817, $7.91 for the gasket 19305-PC6-000, and then GST on top so $42.65 all up. The guy who served me was just some desk guy, he couldn't find the real parts man. The gasket on the old thermostat was all hardened and cover...

Yeah they quite happily provided me with one at Palmy Honda. ~$30 i think, plus ~$15 for the rubber gasket.

Could you get a photo of the front mount and piping? And possibly some dimensions and route of the pipes? Thanks.

I recently replaced one of the front wheel bearings on my T2, not sure if that's applicable to a T1.

The old bearing was NTN DE0871
I replaced it with a SKF brand VKBA 1377
They had VKBA 1382 listed on their system as the right bearing size, but it didn't fit, maybe it's for the T1?

Yeah, I might pull the amp apart this week and have a look for dodgy solders, but my soldering stuff is still in pamly so it may as well wait till i get back in mid january. The amp was working when I tested it in the lounge, but the signal it was getting was probably a lot stronger than what it's g...

Hey guys, I'm in the process of installing a body sonic system in my T2 at the moment. I've figured out what most of the associated wires are for, the only one i'm wondering about is the green input wire that runs from the stock tape player to the body sonic amp. http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f5...

Mine didn't look quite like the one in the picture it was just a simple box about 8cm long, it's quite a way up under the dash, and bolted onto something. It will have the words RELAY and 12V on it.

Get a roll cage so it doesn't matter(so much), and remove any sticking out bits like your mirrors and aerial so they don't break off when it rolls. Then get an electric fence and set it up attached to the car body. The rubber in the tyres should keep it from shorting on the ground. Then whenever som...

Do you mean when the digital boost gauge starts to show something, or are you getting positive pressure from a real boost gauge? My digital gauge starts showing "boost" once I get less than 10 inches of mercury vacuum pressure, which would probably be possible at those low revs. I don't th...