CityTurbo.com

Better in the way of managing any boost level as I can drop to 6-7psi if I wanted to or up over 20psi with consistency, its just a more reliable/accurate setup but the standard T2 turbo will be better with spool at low rpm & therefore is slightly less laggy but if running a front mount intercool...

Hey bro. A answer to that gap where it says 'Fuel Cut' on that fuse board, that's only used on N/A city's, a relay unit is fitted in there to pulse the fuel pump only when the car is running because its a low pressure setup & only needs small amount of fuel so don't go out to the wreckers to get...

They're not hard to find, I've got a spare one. It is harder to find a reconditioned one though. As far as I know city R box will fit and has longer 2nd and 3rd (and 4th?) gears, king city did this I'm pretty sure Almost right bro, its the City-E (NZ New) that has the longer 2nd, 3rd & 4th gear...

Can't turn the boost down, as the wastegate isn't small enough to keep it down that low. Fueling issues seem like a good plan to investigate next, maybe I'll pop the injectors off and test em.. Its not the wastegate size that's stopping it from staying under 11psi, 11psi is the rate for the standar...

My point was you can still get the kits new in Aus, and there is an exedy kit for turbo 2's so ask them if they can get the T2 version...[/quote] Sorry bro, my comment was not towards yours, i was watching tv while typing message & didn't send it till about 20mins later so came in after yours. T...

Even if that clutch kit was the correct size its unlikely to fit a T2, the pressure plate looks more suited to a T1 than a T2. Clutch plates are the same between citys but pressure plates aren't, City-E's (blacktop) use the same flywheel/pressure plate setup as T2's but have different flywheel timin...

Haha yeah well i did say there was a good chance i'd end up selling it early this year but chances are if you waited for me to sell it then i wouldn't have so you done the right thing.

Haha yeah that sounds like most peoples aim to have a reliable daily driver that has a massive amount of power that doesn't chew through the fuel, sounds like hes a real D.I.Y.er haha. I class myself as a do it yourself type so i cant be to judgemental towards other peoples workmanship, i just bough...

Forgot to mention the center housing is also water cooled but i never hooked the water up to it as its not needed.

:shock: Here i have my Hi-flowed T1 Turbo for sale, i am planning on a different setup & don't plan on using it again so the sooner it goes the sooner i have to do the new setup. I've had it for quite some years but have only recently fitted a hi quality muffler to quieten it as it use to be a s...

Im guessing the previous owner of that engine used a lot of loctite on the flywheel bolts with an excessive amount of torque, novice Lol.

Yeah i do still have them but the sale is sort of on hold at the moment as i am holding them for someone which is fine because im still using them so it sort of workes out for me at the moment, ill let you know if that falls through.

You have to remember these are very light cars & the drum breaks which are more than sufficient for the weight of the car would have been used to give a good brake bias between the front & rear as disks on the rear may have caused the rear to lock up easily under heavier braking or normal us...

As long as the centering ring still supports the disk & wheel & the flat head tappered screws are long enough to tighten the disk assembly then spacers will be fine as long as you still have a sufficient amount of bolt sitting out to bolt the wheel on safely but you are referring the disks f...

They sound the same as 1st Gen Integra ones.