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True, though the idea with the intake bypass is that it opens when super to turbo pipe is less than atmos meaning the turbo is trying to suck air through the super... Only problem I can think of is if the Supercharger pushing through the turbo means that it won't spool properly because the wastegate...

Wastegate line comes from compressor outlet just before the intake pipe covers. Just thinking measuring the pressure here might identify where the problem is pre, or post turbo etc...

[hah, bigelboe posted while I was writing my response ;-)] T2 standard runs 12psi boost, so if you aren't hitting that then you have a problem: Wastegate spring failure (not enough tension to keep it shut) Wastegate distortion - the hole, or plug of the wastegate could be damages (extreme EGT can do...

Also, is there a requirement to have the turbo before the supercharger in the circuit? Could you have the super blowing through the turbo and then once the turbo starts to overpower the super, it can open a bypass to suck air in between turbo and super. This way the change over can be smooth, as the...

For the belt, you _might_ be able to get away with a serpentine and just invert the drive with a pair of tensioner pulleys, means it won't be driving on the ribs, but should be ok. see dodgy paint ;) http://bink.conceptual.net.au/images/superch_belt.gif That also means you could mount the superch. t...

I thought of one other way to control this system too.... Separate the intake paths for the turbo and supercharger, then have a mechanism to make a 1 way valve in from the turbo, so that when the turbo is not spooled it seals and the supercharger air provides the intake. Then, when the turbo spools ...

If you keep the clitch then when you reach boost pressure and the bypass opens, you can turn the clutch off and stop the charger, and reduce load on the engine, would work great!

My dad fit a saab supercharger from a 2L onto a Toyota 18R (2L) engine and had nothing but trouble, usually on smaller engines you lose more than you gain as driving the supercharger not only takes load but slows you revving ability ... That coupled with the fact it's off a 2L 6cyl engine means ther...

Finally got some pictures of two of the turbos, but they came out rather crap. VG33 0508 RHF5 09 270C http://bink.conceptual.net.au/images/vg33_RHF5.jpg VG26 0201 RHF5 23 435 http://bink.conceptual.net.au/images/vg26_RHF5.jpg A pic of one of the wastegates, obviously from excessive EGT on a diesel, ...

The Sway bar looks totally different to that fitted to the turbo cars, according to the manual, the turbo2 rear swaybar is the same as the turbo1 (mounting wise anyway) but the swaybar above appears to go forward of the arm and through the chassis in front of the wheels, odd. Is the CityR suspension...

Also, does anyone know the thread/size of the plug in the TB top on a turbo 1 (there is a plug on the passenger side of the TB cover) After a cheap bov, doesn't have to be anything special, just need to be able to adjust it, ideally want to put it into the TB where the plug is as it will be easiest ...

Yep, organising a replacement now...

Definitely has an impact on handling, car tends to sway a lot more and feels like it pushes over on the front tyres more cornering without it

Very true, ok, I measured with the tape vertical and running through the centre of each wheel.

Trying to work out the set eight of a City Turbo 1. Please fill out the details below of your car, hopefully we can work out a consensus on what it shoudl be ;-) I can't find the measurements in the manual anywhere .... Car: Turbo 1 Wheel Diameter: 13" Tyre spec: 175/65 Guard lip to ground meas...

I have taken the swaybar off, looks like they tried to tow with it. is shagged, have sourced a complete rear half cut from CJ, will review and swap over what's no good. With the height, the guard lip to ground measurements were: Front Left: 585mm Right: 590mm Rear Left: 560mm Right: 565mm +-5mm for ...