Holden Rodeo Turbo Upgrade
Posted: Mon Oct 03, 2005 11:11 am
so far both jay and i have done this conversion
you will need:
an ihirhf-5 turbo from a 2.8l deisel holden rodeo
a drill to enlarge the bolt holes on the exhaust side
an angle grinder or a file if you like a bit of hard yakka
a bunch of tools for removing turbo etc
the serial no on my turbo is:02245d
and the parts no is:8971397242
you should start by taking the old turbo off to compare the flange that bolts to the manifold,then old turbo in hand go visit some 4wd/ute and van/comercial vechle wreakers to find a turbo(calling first is good too),when you have the new turbo in hand put the manifold flanges together to compare the two,the holes should be the same distance apart but a tiny bit smaller on the rodeo.make sure you get the dump pipe with it and any other bits and peices they want to chuck in like watter,oil lines etc
now that you are back home with both turbos side by side you will notice that the rodeo turbos compressor housing is facing the wrong direction.this is easily rectified by undoing the metal clamp bit holding the exhaust side to the compressor side,and pulling off the exhaust snail housing bit,there is a little pin sticking out that needs to be ground off you will see it.then rotate the exhaust housing around to match the t2 turbo.while your there its a good idea to give the whole turbo a good clean espicially the compressor side mine was covered in filthy black crud but some crc and throttle body cleaner+an old tooth brush soon fixed that.my turbo had those pesky tamper proof star head screws holding the compressor cover on witch i replaced with allen headed cap screws for future ease of removal.
now you want to drill out the holes on the flange that bolts to the manifold to the same size as the old turbo.
i blocked up the watter cooling holes with a little plate i made up out of 2mm thick sheet metal use the water cooling lines you should have got with the turbo to trace the shape onto your sheet metal
then take the turbo and put it on the manifold and bolt up loosely you will notice the larger than normal aluminum flange that the compressor housing bolts up to touches a steel coolant line that appears to come from the intake manifold(this can be seen from above)then take a marker pen and put a mark on the turbo where it touches,pull the turbo off and use the angle grinder to grind away the offending aluminium,then test fit again ::) if all seems well bolt up to manifold tightly using the stock metal gasket inbetween
the stock oil feed line wont bolt down hard to the new turbo(wich i discovered the hard way) you have 2 options here you can do what i did and pack up underneath the "bango bolt" (hollow bolt that allows oil to pass thru it) with a bunch of washers ::) to gain the necisary clearance,or do what jay did and have a custom oil line made up(the more sensable option)
the wastegate actuator in its stock position will be in the way of the oil drain so it need to be moved,i would recomend a performance workshop that reguarly plays with turbo cars does this but having said that the butchers that did mine did it real dogey so if you have half a clue and a welder have a go your self.the oil drain on mine was cut in the middle by the same scumbags and extended using a piece of flexable hose also prety dodgey but it works and wont be seen unless you clamber under the car
then go have a new dump pipe made up to fit,to save cash have them use the flange from the stock cast dump to weld a 2.5 or3 inch pipe to and your away
jay you are the pioneer of this whole operation so please fill in enything i have forgotten or add picks of your own
picks can be found in my gallery in the members rides section of the gallery they are fairly self explanitry
cheers matty