Hello people,
I have decided to go on the the hunt for a city turbo. I have done a search and there does not seem to be any buyers guide on this site. I am going to have a look at one on the weekend. It's a City Turbo 1 and they are asking $1000 for it.
What should I be checking out or on the look out for?? Like fault prone areas?? How many ks do these things last??
Thanks
City turbo Buyers guide??
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- Forum Enthusiast
- Posts: 261
- Joined: Wed Mar 26, 2003 1:34 am
- Location: Brisbane
Re: City turbo Buyers guide??
where are you? if you're in Brisbane might come to check it out with you.. I've had two of these cars. they're grteat otherwise fire me an email I'll be happy to help you out.
later
Andy
later
Andy
Re: City turbo Buyers guide??
Gag!!!!
$1,000... here in oz.... could not possibly be mobile...are you nuts .
In the land of "go's" $1,000 gets ya nothing but bits .
however in Kiwi land , this sort of doe will land something quite promising . Gad that hurts .
As said before most second hand cars have been flogged to within an inch and bloody hard these days to find one looked after .A good one in pristine condition in OZ will fetch up to $6G or flogged for around $3G for example . In NZ it's what the buyer is willing to pay aparently but really cheap compared to us .
Apart fom mechanicals the hot spots to look for are rust in rear hatch door hinges and airbox . Front end suspension faults particularly bottom ball joints and shockers .
Head gaskets and water pumps are weak so make sure coolant is at full strength to minimise corrosion .
$1,000... here in oz.... could not possibly be mobile...are you nuts .
In the land of "go's" $1,000 gets ya nothing but bits .
however in Kiwi land , this sort of doe will land something quite promising . Gad that hurts .
As said before most second hand cars have been flogged to within an inch and bloody hard these days to find one looked after .A good one in pristine condition in OZ will fetch up to $6G or flogged for around $3G for example . In NZ it's what the buyer is willing to pay aparently but really cheap compared to us .
Apart fom mechanicals the hot spots to look for are rust in rear hatch door hinges and airbox . Front end suspension faults particularly bottom ball joints and shockers .
Head gaskets and water pumps are weak so make sure coolant is at full strength to minimise corrosion .
Re: City turbo Buyers guide??
this thread should be full of tips for potential purchasers.. i've asked around at what i should have been looking at when i was going to look at T2's.
Check out threads that i've started about what i should look for in T2's and they should have some good info.
Check out threads that i've started about what i should look for in T2's and they should have some good info.
- Akuma
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Re: City turbo Buyers guide??
[quote author=AnimaLector link=board=GEN;num=1108032765;start=0#1 date=02/10/05 at 23:27:18]where are you? if you're in Brisbane might come to check it out with you.. I've had two of these cars. they're grteat otherwise fire me an email I'll be happy to help you out.
later
Andy
[/quote]
Yep im in Brisy
Check your email man
later
Andy
[/quote]
Yep im in Brisy
Check your email man
Re: City turbo Buyers guide??
Hi Akuma,
How about you come along to the local Honda club meeting on Monday night for a bit of a chat and briefing of some of those little idiosyncracies?
Sport Aircraft Associations Club rooms, just inside Emergency Gate 1, Beatty Road, from about 7.45pm. Until you've had enough.
Campbell
How about you come along to the local Honda club meeting on Monday night for a bit of a chat and briefing of some of those little idiosyncracies?
Sport Aircraft Associations Club rooms, just inside Emergency Gate 1, Beatty Road, from about 7.45pm. Until you've had enough.
Campbell
-
- Forum Enthusiast
- Posts: 206
- Joined: Wed Mar 12, 2003 11:03 am
- Location: Porirua, New Zealand
- Contact:
Re: City turbo Buyers guide??
Hi, I got my first T1 for $80, it was in good condition apart from a stuck waistegate. My current T2 i got for $750 and have spent a couple of thousand painting and replacing factory wheels.
I think the biggest thing to look out for is rust. It's everywhere in these cars, especially around the areas with silly plastic trim partly covering paint. These bits tend to trap water.
Under the plastic trim under the windscreen is a good place to look, also inside the guards in the back because the drain holes tend to get clogged with leaves and general garbage. Otherwise just keep your eyes pealed.
Another thing to check for would be smoke when test driving / starting / idling and also check for end play in the turbo if you can be bothered taking apart the intake. One last thing. Check the shocks... These are the hardest thing to find for cities without question, while you can't be really fussy because all cars of this age are f**ked to a certain extent you can probably find one thats better than another in that respect at least.
I think the biggest thing to look out for is rust. It's everywhere in these cars, especially around the areas with silly plastic trim partly covering paint. These bits tend to trap water.
Under the plastic trim under the windscreen is a good place to look, also inside the guards in the back because the drain holes tend to get clogged with leaves and general garbage. Otherwise just keep your eyes pealed.
Another thing to check for would be smoke when test driving / starting / idling and also check for end play in the turbo if you can be bothered taking apart the intake. One last thing. Check the shocks... These are the hardest thing to find for cities without question, while you can't be really fussy because all cars of this age are f**ked to a certain extent you can probably find one thats better than another in that respect at least.
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