#4 went down... what to do :(

[Justin]

Well, it's finally happened, Twyla's Turbo II powered '76 convertible is now running on 3 cyl.  :'(  The 4th has spark and fuel, but no go  
It's time for a rebuild, what parts are available for the rebuild? (I live in Canada, but my sister is coming from Auckland in June) So getting the parts over here is not a problem.  
What I'm looking for is parts numbers for the head gasket, water pump, intake/exhaust gaskets, valve seals etc etc.
Any help would be greatly appreciated


Justin

[campbell]

Hi Justin, before we go too far.  Knee deep in greasy, grotty parts, skinned knuckles and nothing coming undone without breaking a bolt, or two.

What's the diagnosis?  Have you compression tested the engine?  All cylinders, not just the sad one.  Checked the valve clearances?  Go slightly loose on all clearances and recheck.  Swap the plugs around too.

You're quite confident that that injector is actually injecting something?

If the clearances are all okay and the spark is when and where it should be, with a fuel air mix, if still no life in that cylinder, compression?

Do the wet, dry checks and you'll know whether it's going to be a valve (only 3 to choose from), rings or piston.

Good luck,
Campbell

[campbell]

Oops, forgot the dreaded blown headgasket possibility.  Well, I didn't want to think of that one.

Check the behaviour of the coolant in the radiator when you blip the throttle and also for the presence of grey gunk under the oil filler cap (the old water in the oil trick).  If the water froths and bubbles, your gasket could well be rooted, and no choice about it.  New gasket.

Good luck

Campbell

[Justin]

I have yet to do a compression check, I removed the plugs, all but the 4th were good, the 4th was ultra black, I swapped leads/plugs and such, still the same, I even removed the injectors and swapped them around, still the same, checked the wiring and had the proper pulse and 12volt connection. The car will give a load of white smoke upon start up (only sometimes  ??? ) Leading me to believe it might be the head gasket, the oil cap has the dreaded goo aswell  :'(  I'll probably do a complete rebuild, if I can get all of the correct parts

[Colza]

Certainly sounds very headgasket-like to me :-/ But hell id take a head gasket over a main bearing any day!

I should be able to get a full head set through my local rebuilder which is where i got mine from the last twice. Do you want me to get a price for you?

[Justin]

That would be great,  :) also the valve seals/water pump/ head bolts etc etc ..basically all of it

[Colza]

Cat get head bolts, i tried when i did mine. Best bet would be to contact ARP or someone and see if they can make some up for ya.

Didnt you just do the water pump not too long ago?

[Justin]

[quote author=Colza link=board=GEN;num=1116966590;start=0#6 date=05/26/05 at 20:17:12]Didnt you just do the water pump not too long ago?[/quote]

I did, but the only thing that was close to the same size was a '82-'83 accord 1.8 water pump, it fits, no leaks, but the car seems to run hotter than before, I'm assuming the flow rate was a little better on the TII water pump

[doggystyle]

arp should make them but they'll cost a bit.. we looked at getting  some made for a 2.0l mazda but they worked out at about 500 bucks after postage etc... also you could've burnt a valve.. that will give you a black valve... is what happened to me.. a bhg wont normally do that... which means you could be in for a new/secondhand cam and a valve as well due to the classic wearing number four cvcc cam lobe......

[Justin]

So, has anybody come across part numbers yet It's quite hard to try and locate anything positve on the net regarding the parts  >:( Not many online parts stores in NZ..

[Charles]

I got ARP studs to replace all the bolts. I gave ARP the sizes I wanted and they had some match up. I bought several sets. The biggest cost was postage.

You have to cut down the one that goes under the oil pump drive. Once you have ARP stauds you never have to replace. Better, more even tension as well.

Justin, you may have a blown head gasket but I would suspect a problem. Black plug may indicate that the cvcc lobe on No 4 has worn down to the point where the CVCC valve is not opening. As the plug is in the prechamber fed by the cvcc port it would get very black if only the main chamber is recieving fuel.

Take out the cam and get all the cvcc lobes rebuilt to the spec of the best one there.

[Justin]

Once I get it apart, I'll let you know  thanks for the help

[Colza]

Try sending an email to the guy at http://www.partsco.co.nz

Ive bought some stuff from them before for fairly good prices.

I will be able to get you a price on a full head set on either Wed or Thurs, 'fraid its gonna be flat out till then :-/

[doggystyle]

[quote author=Justin link=board=GEN;num=1116966590;start=0#9 date=05/29/05 at 01:36:30]( Not many online parts stores in NZ.. [/quote]


lol... there is only 4 million of us so dont expect too much ;D

[Justin]

Well, I finally got around to doing a leak down test, it looks like the #4 exhaust valve is burnt  Now the question is:
Are the exhaust valves interchangable with regular 1237cc or another compatible motor?