Engine Conversion

[JohnT]

Nathan

This question doesn't belong in this section of the site, you ned to post such stuff in "General". (I expect one of the moderators will move it.) But to answer your question, see "JohnT & CT" in the members details section. The turbo engines go into a Civic body just fine.

John

[mozzy]

Moved to general.

[civic_killer]

did'nt the gen 1 civic only come out in 73? never heard of a 67 model.

[Colza]

That might be a '76' thats been a little jumbled i think...

[Colza]

Searching is your friend.

Have a look in the infobase here:

http://www.cityturbo.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=FAQ;action=display;num=1073779985
http://www.cityturbo.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=FAQ;action=display;num=1073780690
http://www.cityturbo.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=FAQ;action=display;num=1073781299
http://www.cityturbo.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=FAQ;action=display;num=1092457801

for a start.  Just generally have a browse around the site, there is tons of info here

EDIT:
And why go for a hard to do, unreliable carby turbo setup, when the city turbo can give you an infinitely more sophisticated, reliable amd powerful engine, that pretty much bolts straight in  8)

[Tim]

hi all,

This is my first real post, although i have been listening in for a while. I am from Melbourne and have a 76 civic hatch which i am attempting to do the city turbo conversion. I have the engine and have no worries with putting the engine in. I have two main concerns which hopefully you people would be able to clarify.

1)The wiring - Anything relating to this pig of a job would be appreciated
2) The Gear box - I have a two speed hondamatic gearbox and i am too lazy to change it. Would this setup be able to be married to the engine and would it survive

Thanks for any help you can provide

Tim

[Fader]

I assume by the sounds of that, you dont have a Turbo gear box with your engine?

Im not sure (and im sure someone will be able to tell you) but i probably wouldnt be putting that 2 speed anywhere near a City turbo motor! I dont think it would last very long..

As for the wiring, if you dont have the full loom, find one! otherwise you are in for a hell of a time! As im sure your probably know, there is a few people on the site who have done this conversion, and im sure they will be happy to assist you where they can.

Good luck!
Chris

[James]

Hondamatic gearbox would probly handle the power with the built in gearbox cooler. Colza and I have been toying with the idea of having an auto, it would be cool to mess around with for a while, if not for a daily driver. I think that the civic gearbox, bellhousing and tourque converter should bolt on to the city engine, but if not some fagging around with auto NA city bellhousings and stuff should set you right.

EDIT: I have read a report of a guy who was trying to break a hondamatic gearbox, he did 50 in first gear, slammed it into second, and it just slowed down and then went backwards, he did this repeatedly and it didnt show any signs of stopping so i recon give that box a go!

As for the wiring, the neatest way is cut out the guts of the civic wiring, pretty much everything that connects to the fusebox, about 0.5m away from the fuse box(and the ignition aswell), and then graft whats left of the civic wiring (lights, wipers, demister other bollucks like that) to the appropriate wires on the city wiring. More on this later.

This job is a lot easier if you can pull apart a city turb with all the working wiring, cause then you can make labels showing what attaches to where and so on. There are some largely redundant parts of the city loom in the swap aswell, like most of the instrument cluster (unless you put the city one in) and all the controls for the AC system.
Another way you can do it is to pull the bits of a city loom out that are nescessary to the engine functioning, including the city fusebox unless you want to pull it apart and build another fusebox or use all inline fuses. The bits you need are the injector loom that goes across to the left under the dash and pops up underneath the front left guard, and most of what comes into the enginebay through the left guard. I say most cause a chunck of it is lights an stuff, which you can seperate out if you want but its very time consuming. You also need the big two looms that go to the computer under the drivers seat. You pretty much then just unplug the civic wiring from the engine, coil it up if you want to keep it or cut it if u dont, then drill some holes in the firewall and lay the city wiring in the civic like it was in the city. Plug everything you can in, graft the city ignition wires to the civic ones and you are away laughing. (PS pay particular attention to earths in the engine bay when you install the city loom, its really shite if u miss one)

I only give a detailed account of the bogan method cause I am experienced in this field  8) if I were to do it again I would definitly do the first method, which is pretty similar in installation but requires a heap of cutting and soldering.It will end up with a much higher quality(and lighter and neater and more reliable) setup in the end.

There are also wiring diagrams floating around on this site somewhere that may help you, but they are in Japanese (wouldnt take a japa very long to translate it for you if you have nippon connections  ;) ). wire colours are one thing you can get from these that are very helpful.

Hope this is helpful, fire away if you have anymore questions if we get some good info we can prolly wack this into the infobase

[James]

The motor drops in on civic mounts and axles EXCEPT you need to have a custom rear tourque arm made using a civic, or other firewall side mount and the city engine side mount, its really easy youll see what i mean when u get the engine in there, it about 15 mins work for a fabricator.

This is stolen from another civic related forum, hope i don't get in trouble!!

Heres What the VIN means

SB = Civic 1200 (Civic CVCC/1500 would be SG)
C = 3-door 4-speed
5 = 5th year of 1200 production (1977) (prod commenced 1972)
xxxxx = Chassis number

As for the engine,

EB = 1200
2 = 2nd generation
3 = 3rd year of the EB-2 (1977 as well)

The rest of the numbers are probably a sequential build number, or might denote the transmission or emissions level of the engine.

[Tim]

Thanks for the help guys i do have the loom and the wiring and i will be using it as a daily driver.

Much appreciated, Tim