T2 Problems

[turbo11]

Hi all, i now have my T2 ;D and need some help with a few things.

1. Can anyone tell me how to get rid of the 106km alert noise from the dash.

2. The in dash boost gauge is not working properly, it shows full boost and then nothing even when just sitting. Most of the time stuck on full boost.

3. After getting the car warm sometimes it hunts ( jumps from 600rpm to 1200 then back to 600 and so on ) while its doing this you flick the lights on and it stops and back to normal. ( most of the time ).

Any help guys would be great
Thanks

[Nateh]

Easy to solve the first, you need to undo the screws in the dash cluster hood bit above steering wheel then remove the outer hood piece thats visable from the windscreen and undo the black + black/white plug, should be near the top. No more warning.

My T1 has the same boost graph problem, i installed an autoguage one and now ignore the standard one.

Mine also hunts when warm, play with the idle screw a bit and sort it, i had gotten mine to stop and then i took it to a mechanic and he stuffed it again and dad wont let me play with it cause he paid heaps to get tune.

[turbo11]

Thanks

[Nateh]

When I got my T1, it didnt beep at 106, then while i was hooking the boost guage up I saw this unattatched plug so i put it in and for the next week drove myself insane cos of the beeping (i live near a motorway and use it to get to all my mates places and work and everything so im doing 120 most of the time). In the end I took the screws out, ripped into it and removed the plug.

Im going to have a go at repairing the boost graph
sometime soon and I will let you know how it goes. I also want to make a warning light system from the second to top bar so that I can make a light flash somewhere to warn that fuel cut is near.

[James]

Funny thing is your idle hunting and your buggered boost guage could be the same problem.

The boost guage will have dry sodler joints inside it most likely, pull it out and resolder all of the joints.

For some reason I havnt determined yet the boost guage is connected to the unit that controls the idle up valve, so if this is not connected at the boost guage end it can wreak havoc with your idle.

Otherwise, vacuum leaks can cause idle hunt as can a poorly adjusted idle, like if anyone has played with the throttle stop on you TB rather than usuing the actual brass idle screw.

[Nateh]

i think your right with the soilder as before I had the autoguage unit installed I used to hit the dash cluster and the boost guage would drop to real level, doesnt work anymore tho. once a month it will show the real readings but always stick on full boost once it gets hot.

[Henry]

You need to re-solder the joints in your main relay, that seems to cause most of the boost gauge problems. You should also be able to adjust out most of the hunting if you get onto the right screw. I know your car, send me a PM and I'll see if I can help.

[campbell]

Following on from what Henry had to say, when you pull the binacle out, completely dismantle it and run your soldering iron over every joint that there is.

I did this with mine and it solved the boost gauge problem, plus gave much smoother running.  There is some feedback circuit between the boost gauge electronics, the road speed sensor and the engine management.

The most difficult part of this operation is getting that speedo cable of and on again!

The idle hunting could be from the idle air bypass adjustment.  It's to the left of the throttle assembly.  I have seen a photo of the screw that you need somewhere in this forum.  It may only take a fraction of a turn to take it from smooth to annoying, or dangerous.

Having said that, are you sure that the cooling system has been bled properly from the nipple (maybe that should be "milked from the nipple" just in front of the distributer?  If there's a bubble of air in there it will affect the idle.

regards,
Campbell