If you are driving past it would be cool if you could confirm exactly wht parts got chucked in your turbo, for interests sake.
Pulley + fanbelt came off!!!
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Hyperblade
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bigelboe wrote:Personally I would go with what the turbo expert said
If you are driving past it would be cool if you could confirm exactly wht parts got chucked in your turbo, for interests sake.
Na i won't be seeing him again anytime soon (fingers crossed), Im currently running a water cooled block, with the water cooling not used. I think a new compressor wheel was also added.
It bolted straight up, so im pretty sure they are excatly the same. But anyone interested should really check for themselves.
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James
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So hows the performance of it? Very similar/exactly the same or is it a bigger compressor. I would be quite intrested in a moderate turbo upgrade, like just enough to run 180-200 HP on the upper bounds of the turbo's efficiency, so that daily driving doesn't suffer too much. I really love boosting at 2000rpm
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Hyperblade
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bigelboe wrote:So hows the performance of it? Very similar/exactly the same or is it a bigger compressor. I would be quite intrested in a moderate turbo upgrade, like just enough to run 180-200 HP on the upper bounds of the turbo's efficiency, so that daily driving doesn't suffer too much. I really love boosting at 2000rpm
Well the turbo went just was we were redoing the engine so hard to say.
Topend its better then our other T2, but a lot of that could be down to the exhaust. Boosts just like any other turbo, starts at 3000rpm and full boost at 3500.
Im pretty sure its just excatly like a standard T2 turbo. I wasn't paying for it to be upgraded
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James
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woah dude, fly me down for that price. Seriously, I recon you should just jump in the deep end and and have a go, its seriously not that hard, just a lot of bolting and unbolting, just need to get yourself a torque wrench.
If you do decide to do we can provide pretty good instructions on what you need to do
If you do decide to do we can provide pretty good instructions on what you need to do
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James
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OK, start by taking the throttle body off the T2 engine in your car.
1. Remove all turbo and intercooler piping and factory air filter if you have one.
2. Unbolt the red air intake thingie on top of the engine, labelling the 2 hoses that go to it.
3. Undo the fuel lines going to the CVCC injector, fuel will piss out but thats ok
4.Remove the coolant hoses from the auto chock, the roughly cylindrical thigie ont he back of the throttle body with two coolant hoses going into it
5. Remove the 4 nuts holding down the throttle body around its perimeter.
6.Remove and label all hoses going tot he throttle body and that brown spacer plate that goes under it.
7.Undo anything I have forgotten and then lift off the throttle body, this is the only bit you need to keep from the T2 engine apart from the gearbox and flywheel and clutch.
8.Remove the T2 engine labelling the fuel hoses and all of the wiring plugs you have to unplug, take off the clutch cable and the accelerator cable and the speedo cable going into the back of the gearbox, also dont forget the reversing lights plug down on the end/bottom of the gearbox.
8.1. Youll also have to get under it and unbolt the gear shifter linkages fromt he gearbox, to get one off the slide the collar back and drive the pin out the other one is a 10mm bolt going into the gearbox.
8.2. remove all the radiator hoses from the engine, leave them attached to the radiator side, also do the heater hoses, detach these at the firewall. Also do the Air conditioning liens if you sitll have this installed, youll have to let the gas out unfortunately.
8.3 take the front wheels off and chuck it on stands or blocks, unbolt the bolt thats holding the struts pinched into the knuckles, pull the struts out of the knuckles, you should have enough leverage to pull the cv joints out of the hubs now, do this by placing a big screwdriver or a prybar between the cv joint and the gearbox and prying it out, it should pop out satisfyingly. If you cant get enough travel with just the strut out you may have to undo the lower contorl arm or the leading arm or both, ill leave this to you to figure out.
thats as much as i can be bothered doing at this stage ill write more later. This would go a lot smoother if you bought a Haynes Mnaual for a civic, or go to your library and photocopy the engine removal pages from their haynes manual.
1. Remove all turbo and intercooler piping and factory air filter if you have one.
2. Unbolt the red air intake thingie on top of the engine, labelling the 2 hoses that go to it.
3. Undo the fuel lines going to the CVCC injector, fuel will piss out but thats ok
4.Remove the coolant hoses from the auto chock, the roughly cylindrical thigie ont he back of the throttle body with two coolant hoses going into it
5. Remove the 4 nuts holding down the throttle body around its perimeter.
6.Remove and label all hoses going tot he throttle body and that brown spacer plate that goes under it.
7.Undo anything I have forgotten and then lift off the throttle body, this is the only bit you need to keep from the T2 engine apart from the gearbox and flywheel and clutch.
8.Remove the T2 engine labelling the fuel hoses and all of the wiring plugs you have to unplug, take off the clutch cable and the accelerator cable and the speedo cable going into the back of the gearbox, also dont forget the reversing lights plug down on the end/bottom of the gearbox.
8.1. Youll also have to get under it and unbolt the gear shifter linkages fromt he gearbox, to get one off the slide the collar back and drive the pin out the other one is a 10mm bolt going into the gearbox.
8.2. remove all the radiator hoses from the engine, leave them attached to the radiator side, also do the heater hoses, detach these at the firewall. Also do the Air conditioning liens if you sitll have this installed, youll have to let the gas out unfortunately.
8.3 take the front wheels off and chuck it on stands or blocks, unbolt the bolt thats holding the struts pinched into the knuckles, pull the struts out of the knuckles, you should have enough leverage to pull the cv joints out of the hubs now, do this by placing a big screwdriver or a prybar between the cv joint and the gearbox and prying it out, it should pop out satisfyingly. If you cant get enough travel with just the strut out you may have to undo the lower contorl arm or the leading arm or both, ill leave this to you to figure out.
thats as much as i can be bothered doing at this stage ill write more later. This would go a lot smoother if you bought a Haynes Mnaual for a civic, or go to your library and photocopy the engine removal pages from their haynes manual.
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Hyperblade
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