cyl sensor

[jay]

can someone please tell me where the CYL sensor is on a T2

[James]

Its in that housing thing that bolts onto the gearbox end of the head by the dizzy. It has 4 wires coming out of it, two are for the CYL sensor, two are for the TDC sensor. There is a test procedure detailed in the manual, Ill have a look at it tomorrow if you reply to this thread to remind me. Looks like all you need is a multimeter.

[Henry]

Unplug it, check the resistance between the red & white (horizontal pins) and between the brown & blue (vertical pins) should be between 0.65 and 0.85 K ohms. Insulation resistance between each terminal and the sensor housing should be 100K ohms or more. Be very carefull if you open it up, the lead wires are quite stiff and are soldered to the coil wires, (which are about hair thickness) and the join is made in a plastic "stand off" which seems to be mounted with wax and the whole thing melts at about the same time as the solder.

[James]

Yup thats what the manual says to do, Henry is an on to it guy. The only thing I couldnt work out at a glance was what the 100k was referring to, was going ot have to translate that, but not now. Cheers for that Henry, Ill put it in the infobase if you dont mind.

[jay]

thanks guys your a grate help.One more thing my ECU was showing the the code for CLY sensor (lights 8 & 1) i had this for at least 2 days then it went away so i thought everything was cool a week later my car stoped it i checked a few things and there was no spark,i changed the ignition module the other day and got spark back the module i used was an aftermarket tridon one it is identical to the one that came out of my dizzy but when we were matching it up at the auto shop the book said that it came from a holden astra 86 to 89 1.6L to 1.8L, now it is hard to start the car idel is low the car sounds like the main injectors are not working wont rev eather aneyone got aney pointers to put me on the right track

[Henry]

Mine had an intermittent fault which was caused by a dry solder joint between the input wire and the coil. When you test it get someone to move the wires around jently while you have the meter attached. This may be why your error codes went off. See my previous post for tips and TRAPS

[jay]

thanks mate i will give that a go

[jay]

i cheacked it all out today between the red and the wight there is about 0.72 k ohms same between the brown and the blue but when i test between each one and the housing i get nothing what would this mean?

[James]

Nothing as in 0 ohms or nothing as in infinite resistance.

[jay]

sorry i ment there is no ohms as if they are not conected thgether in any way

[Henry]

Don't think they should be, that sounds OK to me

[jay]

i think the cyl sensor is ok to. dose eneyone think it could be the moduel that i put in or maby even the ecu the car dosent wont to idel and when it dose it is vere low and you cant get it to rev pushing the excelorater it dosent even change i have no idear i dont have a spair ecu if eneyone is selling a working T2 ecu please let me know or maby someone who lives in sydney with a working T2 so i could try my ecu in there car.

[James]

Did you put an FCD in? If the computer is in limp home mode it wont rev up just like how you describe.

Also youll need to reset your ECU if youve had an error code. Either disconnect your battery and leave it for liek 30 seconds, or unplug your ecu, whichever is easier.

[turbocab]

hi jay
ime in sydney,let me know if you want to come round and check your ecu in my car or try my spare one in your car.
cheers matt

[jay]

thanks guys you have been a real help i am much appreciated and thanks turbocab for the offer but i got the little beast going the other day turns out i had a bad connection in plug that went to the CYL sensor bit of corrosion.