T2 fuel cut/boost cut/govenor problem

[2meke]

Hello to all the city freaks! this is my first post and yes I need help with a problem. I got a T2 yesterday and took it for its first kane WOW what a massive car, yeaah! Stoked as and proud.

Problem outline:

The car cuts out at these different rpm's in each gear. It doesnt die completely just stops everything for a split second then turns it on again and if I keep accelerating it keeps doing it but obviously stops doing it if I reduce acceleration.

1st gear fuel cut or govenor at 5500-6000 rpm
2nd 5000 rpm
3rd 4500 rpm
4th 4000 rpm
5th (havent got that high yet)

Is this a normal safety measure that honda built in or is there something seriously wrong with it? The car doesnt have any mods it appears factory standard and in good condition like it was owned by grandma for the last 20years. The only prob is a little bit of rust.

My knowledge is limited on these things but I am looking forward to developing a honda city brain.

Thanks.

[jay]

sounds like boost cut when the turbo is over boosting the ecu reads this and to protect the engin it kills the power just see if you can get a boost gauge onto it and cheack your boost levels if it is 15 psi or above that will be your prob and then you will have to find out why it is over boosting

[James]

Welcome to the site, jay is probably on the money. Check whether your city has an aftermarket exhaust. If it does then you probably need to have a look at this article.

http://www.cityturbo.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2137

If it looks like you have a factory exhaust thne you probably have a slightly sticky wastegate, which is a pretty simlar process to the above article, except you just fiddle witht he wastegate with the turbo on the car and check it moves freely.

[2meke]

Thanks for all the info I will get my hands on a boost gauge and troubleshoot that. The car also surges on idle which I believe after reading the forums that it could be a vacume leak so I will also look at that.

Thanks again I will post up my findings when I have some

[2meke]

2meke alright! Well that is some good advice thanks 2 you both. The pics on the link were helpful also. Once located and accessed I put some CRC on the wase gate/actuator shaft pivot waited for a little bit then worked it free. Took it for a spin straight away and wolahh! problem solved! The car has less grunt (so am sure it was over boosting) but it no longer cuts out which allows for much more enjoyable driving.

I am still have a problem with the idle surging which is I believe is the vacume line from the diaphram on the right of the throttle body that splices into a main tube that runs to the brake booster. I took the line off the diaphram and it immediately started surging, put it back on and it stopped. Could you confirm this is the correct diaphram as I noticed another on the LEFT of the throttle body that runs to a black box on the left against the rear firewall it also has a small green valve? in its line. If there is enough load on the engine at idle (lights, heater etc...) the idle is raised just enough to avoid the surging.

Is there and easy way of finding out the consumables for a full service?

Plugs, oil filter,leads, gearbox oil, brake fluid, engine oil(cam cover says 20w 40w but it does not seem to be available any more only 20w 50w), fuel filter.

Does any one know of a good complete exhaust with extractors available or some one that does a good job fabricating them? From reading the posts I am looking for a 2 1/2 inch exhaust. I will also be putting a pod filter on there so info on that would be great.

Thanks heaps again! yeah!!!!!!

[James]

Go for 10W40 as your oil.

[2meke]

Thanks for that. Although I do have a couple of questions about that. Isnt 10w 40w if your region goes -15 deg? if so would it be better to run a 15w 40w oil? I am in Hamilton in the waikato so the lowest temp is round -5 give or take in the winter if definately 10W 40W no questions asked would you reccomend a certain brand/type.

I think I will use a Fram oil filter with a magnet in it to further clense the oil.

Is there a compilation of rec specs for all these maintenance things? If not I would be happy to compile a maintenance sheet for a standard setup turbo 2. Filters, thermostat, plugs, leads, oil type/quantity etc etc... It seems alot of this info is on the site but scattered around a little. If I can get the correct accurate information (hence the questions). Do you think it would be a useful addition to the infobase? I am recording all this info in a book anyway so would be pretty acheivable.

While Im on a roll... If I understand correctly there is no english version of a turbo 2 (or 1?) workshop manual and that they were all in japanese? is this also the case for the owners manual? do you know if anyone has a digital copies of both of these I could get hold of to see what could be done with translation. My sisters student boarder is Japanese!

Cheers and I look forward to contributing

[James]

if you find the oil temperature graph in the manual 10w40 is fine as long as the ambient doesnt go about like 45degrees or something and 10w40 is a heng of a lot easier to find isnt it?

I personally use Castrol GT-X oil and change it every about 4000kms and use a repco filter. If I see magnatec on special I will use that instead.

The plugs are NGK BR6EB-L11's if my memory serves me correctly (I have bought a fair few sets of them!)

Leads you just take to an auto place and they grab the matching ones for you.

Thermostat would be a good one I dont know that, from my brief look in the manual I can only find the temperatures not the part numbers.

The japanese manuals for N/a T1 and T2 have all been digitzed thanks to the City of Life Team, as to where to download the from these days im not sure. We could probably put it on limewire or emule or something if nothing else can be sorted.

[2meke]

By the way on the topic of air filters there is a guy here in hamilton that fabricates up a foam filter to fit the factory airbox for any car. the filter has 2 different density foams a coarse and fine he says this is as good and better than the k&n syle filters as the foam will grab a smaller particle size yet still allow maximum airflow. I am inclined to belive him as he has been supplying parts to hot rodders for many many many years.

I have used a filter of his in my mazda jc cosmo 13b turbo and it was sweet as.

He can also make other shaped units. his prices are very reasonable and the one for my cosmo cost around 60 bucks partly because he didnt have a template for that particular template. But was a much better price than the $250 k&n one.

This could be a $ and time saving for people wanting this uprade (avoid intake & cold air feed expense)

Could try negotiate a price with him if others want them also

[Henry]

This has been covered before so will put it in the info base this time.
Unifilter make a foam replacement air filter element that fits in the original air box. Part No UT 275 155
Their catalogue also lists the Finer Filter part No FUT 275 155
They are made from the same foam as their Pod Filter Elements so should breathe the same.

[James]

HKS filters use the two different types of foam sandwiched together and in a technical test of different filters they filtered extremely poorly letting a lot of dirt through, the K&N was only slightly better and flowed about the same amount of air. The Apexi lifetime air filters are the best full stop. They filter the best and also let the most air through, more than K&N, so If you want to buy a pod filter and want it to do its job and its ment to last a lifetime, then get an apexi