hey guys and girls i was wanting 2 make a new inlet manifold and was woundering if i need al the vakum lines coming frm that black box or what's the bear min that i need 2 hav?
any help would be great
thanks
making a new inlet manifold and need help
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James
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Hey guys and girls I am wanting to make a new inlet manifold and I was wondering if I need to keep all the factory vacuum lines coming from the black box or can I remove some of them?
Any help would be great.
Thanks
Try a little time for spell checking and use all the letters for words next time, makes it much easier to read, you dont have a limited amount of letters, IE its not a txt message.
In answer to your question no you dont have to keep all the vacuum lines, but before I can advise you on which ones to ditch I need some more info aout your car, T1, T2 non-turbo?
Just out of interest what is your plan of action to deal with the cvcc ports?
Any help would be great.
Thanks
Try a little time for spell checking and use all the letters for words next time, makes it much easier to read, you dont have a limited amount of letters, IE its not a txt message.
In answer to your question no you dont have to keep all the vacuum lines, but before I can advise you on which ones to ditch I need some more info aout your car, T1, T2 non-turbo?
Just out of interest what is your plan of action to deal with the cvcc ports?
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James
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Hey man, sweet just do your best thats all we can ask for.
Colza made an intake manifold using a b16 VTEC civic 63mm throttle body and part of that intake manifold. He kept the CVCC port and cut the CVCC throttle body off a city turbo throttle body to use for the new manifold.
On the carbie CVCC motors I think the CVCC ports are just connected to the main chambers, I think if you aren't worried about fuel economy (Ill asume you arent
) that you can probably just forget about the cvcc ports as long as they get a good supply of fuel and air from the main ports, this will probably require having the injectors like 10mm away from the head so you get decent mixing before you get to the CVCC port. If you dont understand what Im talking about then I can try and draw a diagram.
As for the vacuum pipes you only need a couple, one for the map sensors, two for the vacuum advance. A big vacuum one for the brake booster. Thats it if you are gonig to run an oil catch can, if you arent then you need one for the rocker cover breather (I suggest you run a catch can).
Colza made an intake manifold using a b16 VTEC civic 63mm throttle body and part of that intake manifold. He kept the CVCC port and cut the CVCC throttle body off a city turbo throttle body to use for the new manifold.
On the carbie CVCC motors I think the CVCC ports are just connected to the main chambers, I think if you aren't worried about fuel economy (Ill asume you arent
) that you can probably just forget about the cvcc ports as long as they get a good supply of fuel and air from the main ports, this will probably require having the injectors like 10mm away from the head so you get decent mixing before you get to the CVCC port. If you dont understand what Im talking about then I can try and draw a diagram.As for the vacuum pipes you only need a couple, one for the map sensors, two for the vacuum advance. A big vacuum one for the brake booster. Thats it if you are gonig to run an oil catch can, if you arent then you need one for the rocker cover breather (I suggest you run a catch can).
oh yea umm i sort of undstand .i got a mate that builds intlet manifolds and i was going to get him to do it
what i was thinking was cut the old manifold off were the injetors go in and make it from ther back, would that work?
or could i use most of the preludes inlet manifold and just change the flange
and na i ant worried about the fuel economy haha
what i was thinking was cut the old manifold off were the injetors go in and make it from ther back, would that work?
or could i use most of the preludes inlet manifold and just change the flange
and na i ant worried about the fuel economy haha
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James
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Hey I think it would help a bit if you understood the CVCC system well. Give this a read.
CVCC is a system used by honda to reduce emissions by stratifying the combustion charge. In the City Turbo the throttle body appears much like a 3 barrel downdraught carby. One barrel has a very small port size and actually houses a single injector. This port leads to a separate set of intake runners which provide fuel to each of the CVCC valves located within a combustion prechamber. The combustion pechamber is actually seperated from the main combustion chamber by a perforated collar. A rich mixture of fuel and air are added to the combustion prechamber which also houses the spark plug. This is ignited and creates a single flame front out of the prechamber. While this goes on the main combustion chamber is fed fuel via sequential multipoint injectors in the same manner as most modern EFI cars. The only difference is that in City turbo motor this is a relatively lean mixture, not easily ignited by a spark plug alone. The flame front from the prechamber is used to ignite this lean mixture. Apart from decreased emissions and increased fuel economy this stratified charge helps to ward off the killer of many turbo engines, DETONATION. Detonation occurs when two flame fronts (or shockwaves) collide in a standard combustion chamber. One is caused by the spark plug, the other is caused by the high pressures, friction and shockwaves on the other side of the cylinder igniting an easily combustible mixture. Detonation can also be caused by superheated carbon particles or sharp edges in the combustion chamber that can operate like a glow plug in a diesel engine. Stratified combustion such as the CVCC system makes this second front less likely to occur as the lean mixtures in the main combustion chambers are hard to ignite.
I am planning to buildanother manifold at some stage and I pan to do what you said, cut the factory manifold off behind the injecor mounts and rebuild it from there, I intend to use CVCC throttle body colza used for his manifold so Ill keep the CVCC system.
CVCC is a system used by honda to reduce emissions by stratifying the combustion charge. In the City Turbo the throttle body appears much like a 3 barrel downdraught carby. One barrel has a very small port size and actually houses a single injector. This port leads to a separate set of intake runners which provide fuel to each of the CVCC valves located within a combustion prechamber. The combustion pechamber is actually seperated from the main combustion chamber by a perforated collar. A rich mixture of fuel and air are added to the combustion prechamber which also houses the spark plug. This is ignited and creates a single flame front out of the prechamber. While this goes on the main combustion chamber is fed fuel via sequential multipoint injectors in the same manner as most modern EFI cars. The only difference is that in City turbo motor this is a relatively lean mixture, not easily ignited by a spark plug alone. The flame front from the prechamber is used to ignite this lean mixture. Apart from decreased emissions and increased fuel economy this stratified charge helps to ward off the killer of many turbo engines, DETONATION. Detonation occurs when two flame fronts (or shockwaves) collide in a standard combustion chamber. One is caused by the spark plug, the other is caused by the high pressures, friction and shockwaves on the other side of the cylinder igniting an easily combustible mixture. Detonation can also be caused by superheated carbon particles or sharp edges in the combustion chamber that can operate like a glow plug in a diesel engine. Stratified combustion such as the CVCC system makes this second front less likely to occur as the lean mixtures in the main combustion chambers are hard to ignite.
I am planning to buildanother manifold at some stage and I pan to do what you said, cut the factory manifold off behind the injecor mounts and rebuild it from there, I intend to use CVCC throttle body colza used for his manifold so Ill keep the CVCC system.
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James
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Heres a little something I prepared earlier. 
Hey, have just finished, couldnt do one word but I dont think its important.
The other Pic is describing whats missing from my car, I dont have any of the stuff in red.
However the ignition control valve is interesting. Its triggered by a water temperature switch which I have circled in red in the wiring diagram. It retards the ignition timing when the coolant is cold to stop you making the engine pink.
One thing I dont know is whether this switch is normally open or normally closed, I will have to find it and check this as soon as possible because I think I probably have pipe 5 connected to the wrong thing. It either has to be connected to pipe 27 or pipe 15 depending on whether that switch is normally open or normally closed and what the resting state of the solenoid is. I will get onto this some time this week and get back to you.
The idle up valve is highlighted in blue, if you can get this working I recommend you keep it, but if you cant then I would ditch it. To make it work youll have to make sure your headlights and cooling fan and stuff are all connected to the little blue idle up solenoid control box. Have you connected the headlights in your mini to the wire into that box? If you havnt then the idle up won't go on with your headlights.
Sorry it appears to have resized the wiring diagram, oh well you can just see what Ive circled in red.
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James
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The idle up valve is highlighted in blue, if you can get this working I recommend you keep it, but if you cant then I would ditch it. To make it work youll have to make sure your headlights and cooling fan and stuff are all connected to the little blue idle up solenoid control box. Have you connected the headlights in your mini to the wire into that box? If you havnt then the idle up won't go on with your headlights.
In your case its already working because yours is factory at the moment.
Its really up to you, I dont have one on my car and its fine, Ive just got my normal idle turned up to about 1000rpm so it doesnt get too rough when the fan or the lights are on. If you wanna keep your idle low and just have it go high with your fan or lights then keep the valve, if you don't care then you can ditch it.
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