James' Civic Rebuild Thread + High Power ER Motor Theory

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James
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Postby James » Sun Aug 05, 2012 8:20 am

Borrowed the 18x8s off my Prelude for a bit of motivation ;)

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Girlfriend thinks it looks ridiculous that low. I recon it just looks awesome :)

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Postby Drifter995 » Sun Aug 05, 2012 8:34 am

That looks awesome :D
Gotta drive around like that, and take a rolling shot of it without the hood on... that'd look badass

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Postby James » Mon Aug 06, 2012 11:47 am

It will be driven as low as possible ;) shortening my Konis about 100mm to make it possible.

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Postby Drifter995 » Mon Aug 06, 2012 7:31 pm

James wrote:It will be driven as low as possible ;) shortening my Konis about 100mm to make it possible.


Awesome ;D
I'll try to get my first gen as low as possible, but I think too low and it'll scrape everywhere on the way home :/

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Postby James » Fri Sep 21, 2012 4:12 pm

After having a good look at the door seal etc I have decided just to remove the rusty drip rails.

I drilled them out using a home-made spot weld drill, then welded up the few holes I created.

Primed the whole drivers side again, looks mint now.

Was just about to bolt up the crossmember to install the engine so I decided to have a look under the car. Saw a bit of surface rust developing in a few places where the underseal had chipped off so this happened:

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Basically got a free mattress off Trademe and hoisted the car onto its side on it using that bit of rope.

This is what the underbody looked like when I started on Saturday, you ca see where I had started to strip the sealer off while the car was right-way-up - f*** that:

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This is what it looks like now:

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Should have it painted with epoxy primer and re-undersealed this weekend.
Last edited by James on Sat Sep 22, 2012 7:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Postby James » Sat Sep 22, 2012 7:05 pm

Its hard to take pictures of a black thing, especially when you have crappy lighting, but its deliciously primed now:

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Some tips for removing underseal:

A scraper is your friend for the flat areas, I used several wood chisels.

A wire brush on a grinder smears the stuff around at first, but will take the bulk of it off.

The 3M strip-discs are terrible at full strength underseal, they smear it around and then get clogged. They are excellent at cleaning the steel up after you have wirebrushed it to get it ready to paint.

Once you have most of the underseal off you can get the last bits off, and the film the wirebrush and the grinder leaves with wax + grease remover or thinners.

You can put underbody sealer straight onto bare metal, but thats a bit old school. When it chips you can get accelerated rust as it holds the moisture, and if any petrol or anything gets on it, it washes off and leaves bare metal.
Better way is to prime with a good quality 2-part epoxy primer, as these are waterproof, and then blast with either stone-chip guard or underseal to protect from rocks possums etc.

Also are those pictures above massive for everyone else? I can't seem to resize them on photobucket.

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Postby Drifter995 » Sun Sep 23, 2012 4:36 am

Theeey were normal size... but apparently it's un-smalled them... for lack of a better word there (can't think of the word >.<)
But man, coming along nicely. Thanks for the tip, too. I may need this for when I eventually overhaul mine :D

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Postby turbocab » Sun Sep 23, 2012 6:42 pm

Good work mate looks like fun...
Should have done some extra stitch welds on all that front chassis bits while u were there.

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Postby James » Mon Sep 24, 2012 6:32 am

Already welded most of the front stuff while I was doing the engine bay, could have done a few more but it will burn the paint off the floor on the inside - will have a look.

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Postby Colza » Mon Sep 24, 2012 7:49 am

Looking awesome mate 8)

(Holy shit my account still works!)

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Postby James » Tue Oct 23, 2012 6:38 am

The rear section:

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Did a little bit of welding:

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Everything seam sealed, and undersealed!

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A very factory looking finish:

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Definitely worth the $40 for the spray gun, rather than brushing it on or using aerosol cans.

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Re: James' Civic Rebuild Thread + High Power ER Motor Theory

Postby James » Sat Oct 15, 2016 9:43 am

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I've done a lot of work to my civic. Pulled the shell down to mostly bare metal, epoxy primer and new underseal underneath, epoxy primer interior, Honda Championship White exterior. Shaved roof channels, no rust anywhere. Converting to a two seater, got some some NOS New Zealand made fixed back fiberglass seats, new black carpet, dash is black, CX instruments (the tach inside the speedo) CX grille, had all the nuts and bolts stripped and re-zinced in gold zinc, many parts gloss black power coated.

Had some 17x7" wheels I was planning to use but I can't go low enough on them for my tastes so I will be buying some 15x7 or 16x7 wheels to replace them with.

Was planning on going straight to the b16a swap but now I am planning on installing the City turbo motor and playing with that for a while seeing as I already have cert etc for that swap. Once its in I will work on my custom suspension etc etc tune it up maybe put my t25 turbo on it then eventually will pull it out to change to the b16.

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Re: James' Civic Rebuild Thread + High Power ER Motor Theory

Postby The N/A Way » Sun Oct 23, 2016 4:34 pm

Nice built. I have a 1st Gen covoc Im putting the ER t2 motor in and also thought bout going strIght to the b16 when the motor wouldnt fire but turned out the ecu was buggered so back to the t2 motor but looking at fitting a ballbearing vf20.

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Re: James' Civic Rebuild Thread + High Power ER Motor Theory

Postby James » Tue Nov 01, 2016 7:24 pm

Sounds like a cool project man. What made you chose that turbo? I'd be surprised if it was very efficient at the higher boost levels the t2 motor needs to perform well. As well as having a turbine wheel sized for a 2L motor making decent power. Might be ok at around 1 bar especially if you machine the t2 exhaust housing to fit.

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Re: James' Civic Rebuild Thread + High Power ER Motor Theory

Postby The N/A Way » Thu Nov 03, 2016 10:48 pm

Yep not after huge hp. As its technically run off 2cyl 1.0l in the B4 legacy, and pumps 8ish psi in to 2l pretty quickly I'm hoping it should spool quickly to 1bar. Add the ballbearing and water cooling Im hoping it spools quickly and reliably. Won't be overly disappointed if it doesn't, both of my T2 turbos are shot and the turbos are cheap enough to experiment with.


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