James' Civic Rebuild Thread + High Power ER Motor Theory
- James
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Wasn't aware a recirc BOV made all that much difference with lag between gears compared to atmo venting.
I have the trumpet quest 4 one thats on my car at the moment that I was thinking of modifying to make it have more flow, maybe also an option of recirculation as it would be pretty easy to implement. I also have an SSQV sitting around that I could mount, not sure if I want the squeaky sound now tho.
I also have serious doubts about you bring able to utilise the power capabilities of your turbo, but it was probably cheap and it will be easy enough to change to a smaller one if you need to. You could just pull out the center and replace it with a vj6 one or a vj20 one. (coincidentally I have a vj6 one for sale )
I have the trumpet quest 4 one thats on my car at the moment that I was thinking of modifying to make it have more flow, maybe also an option of recirculation as it would be pretty easy to implement. I also have an SSQV sitting around that I could mount, not sure if I want the squeaky sound now tho.
I also have serious doubts about you bring able to utilise the power capabilities of your turbo, but it was probably cheap and it will be easy enough to change to a smaller one if you need to. You could just pull out the center and replace it with a vj6 one or a vj20 one. (coincidentally I have a vj6 one for sale )
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- James
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Well I have my turbo, wasn't in as good condition as I expected so it looks like Im going to rebuild it
On the other hand it shouldn't be too expensive as the new bearings and stuff are pretty cheap, and it will be good to know I have a practically new turbo instead of one in unknown condition.
Pics will come once I have it cleaned up a bit.
On the other hand it shouldn't be too expensive as the new bearings and stuff are pretty cheap, and it will be good to know I have a practically new turbo instead of one in unknown condition.
Pics will come once I have it cleaned up a bit.
- James
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OK pics time. I have taken the pics with a VG2 from a T2 (same as T2 center section just diff housings) and a VJ6 from a mazda b6t motor.
OK sorry for the poor lighting quality.
You cant really see from the photos but the compressor sides are all pretty similar in dimensions, except the VJ6 and T25 have larger inducers. The pitch/slope of the blades between the T25/VG2 and the VJ6 compressors is interesting. The t25 and vg2 blades are much straighter, as they are more optimised for higher shaft speeds and higher pressure ratios (more boost ).
The blades on the T25 turbine are a bit straighter than the other two turbos, but again a bit similar to the T2 turbo. The T25 blades are much taller than the other two, not sure what that means, perhaps better efficiency.
OK sorry for the poor lighting quality.
You cant really see from the photos but the compressor sides are all pretty similar in dimensions, except the VJ6 and T25 have larger inducers. The pitch/slope of the blades between the T25/VG2 and the VJ6 compressors is interesting. The t25 and vg2 blades are much straighter, as they are more optimised for higher shaft speeds and higher pressure ratios (more boost ).
The blades on the T25 turbine are a bit straighter than the other two turbos, but again a bit similar to the T2 turbo. The T25 blades are much taller than the other two, not sure what that means, perhaps better efficiency.
- James
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Havn't made all that much progress on this, I have installed the new bearings int he T25 core, shaft is already to go off for ballancing.
I have a spare block, crank, rods and pistons on they way that I might build into a spare motor, I am pushing to find the limit of factory parts after all
Have been doing a bit of work into what Im gonig to use to manage the fueling of this beast, more on that later.
I have a spare block, crank, rods and pistons on they way that I might build into a spare motor, I am pushing to find the limit of factory parts after all
Have been doing a bit of work into what Im gonig to use to manage the fueling of this beast, more on that later.
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- James
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Hey all, been busy as hell with uni wrapping up and confrences and shit so havn't had any time to do anything, hoping to lower the rear of my car a bit on sunday tho, most of my uni work is finished.
I have my quad throttles, they are very pretty!
The quads give me a neat solution to CVCC, I will just blend the CVCC port into the main runner. This will work with the ITB's because the injectors are placed furthur back from the head so will allow time for the mixture to even out.
I have been doing some thinking regarding fuel injection and engine managment. I have come to the decision I will probably use a OBD1 ECU from an early 90's Honda. Much reverse engineering has been done with these ECU's and with the right software and a bit of hardware they are essentially a completely real time programmable ECU. The other benefit is they have complete control of ignition, but you have to use the dizzy from the modern car too. Convinently, it looks like the dizzy will just about bolt to the place the cam angle sensor is bolted to on a city motor. The newer dizzy's have all the cam angle sensors already in them. So the hardware should come to around $200 hopefully for a dizzy and ECU, then its around $15 to chip it. Will keep you all posted when I start working on it
I have my quad throttles, they are very pretty!
The quads give me a neat solution to CVCC, I will just blend the CVCC port into the main runner. This will work with the ITB's because the injectors are placed furthur back from the head so will allow time for the mixture to even out.
I have been doing some thinking regarding fuel injection and engine managment. I have come to the decision I will probably use a OBD1 ECU from an early 90's Honda. Much reverse engineering has been done with these ECU's and with the right software and a bit of hardware they are essentially a completely real time programmable ECU. The other benefit is they have complete control of ignition, but you have to use the dizzy from the modern car too. Convinently, it looks like the dizzy will just about bolt to the place the cam angle sensor is bolted to on a city motor. The newer dizzy's have all the cam angle sensors already in them. So the hardware should come to around $200 hopefully for a dizzy and ECU, then its around $15 to chip it. Will keep you all posted when I start working on it
- James
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OK a bit of theory.
Firstly, GTiR pulsar and Skyline GT-R's both run boosted individual throttle bodies so its by no means a novel idea.
It lets you get the best of both worlds. Awesome throttle response of a nice small plenum NA car because there is little damping from the small amount of throttled charge, strong midrange from good charge velocity(because I chose appropriately sized ITB's) and wicked top end from benefits of the better mixing from the injector placed furthur back, and the increased flow.
They are 38mm throats, good for around 180hp N/A and whatever you want FI.
Im going to run a centrally fed log plenum which should help even up cylinder filling. The middle two will get more than in an end fed because thats where the feed will point to a certain extent, and the end two always get more in a plenum so that should even it out, without me having to spend large amounts of time on the flow bench ballancing my runners. It will be about 1.4-1.5 litres in volume, bigger = more power, smaller = quicker throttle response.
I think my idle and low down should be better compared to N/A cars with ITB's because the motor will have all the plenum, turbo piping, the turbo and the air filter all to pull a decent vacuum against, not like N/A cars just with some velocity stacks. And plus I didn't just go for the biggest ITB's I could find, in fact I went for the smallest. I think a lot of the poor low down people experience with ITB's on here (NZHondas) is because they go too big, you can make 220 NA HP on a 42mm ITB setup...
I have also done some more research regarding ECU's and I tihnk I will use an OBD0 setup if I can get away with it, there are a few less things to worry about and the hardware is a lot cheaper. I have decided to go this route rather than develop the City ECU mainly because it gives me programmable ignition.
Trying to make big power of a dizzy ignition system requires expensive and time consuming re-graphing of the mechanical advance weights and nasty shite like that, very middle ages tech.
And after all, maximum timing is probably one of the most important factors when getting the most out of an engine, a couple of degrees of timing can mean 20-30hp
Firstly, GTiR pulsar and Skyline GT-R's both run boosted individual throttle bodies so its by no means a novel idea.
It lets you get the best of both worlds. Awesome throttle response of a nice small plenum NA car because there is little damping from the small amount of throttled charge, strong midrange from good charge velocity(because I chose appropriately sized ITB's) and wicked top end from benefits of the better mixing from the injector placed furthur back, and the increased flow.
They are 38mm throats, good for around 180hp N/A and whatever you want FI.
Im going to run a centrally fed log plenum which should help even up cylinder filling. The middle two will get more than in an end fed because thats where the feed will point to a certain extent, and the end two always get more in a plenum so that should even it out, without me having to spend large amounts of time on the flow bench ballancing my runners. It will be about 1.4-1.5 litres in volume, bigger = more power, smaller = quicker throttle response.
I think my idle and low down should be better compared to N/A cars with ITB's because the motor will have all the plenum, turbo piping, the turbo and the air filter all to pull a decent vacuum against, not like N/A cars just with some velocity stacks. And plus I didn't just go for the biggest ITB's I could find, in fact I went for the smallest. I think a lot of the poor low down people experience with ITB's on here (NZHondas) is because they go too big, you can make 220 NA HP on a 42mm ITB setup...
I have also done some more research regarding ECU's and I tihnk I will use an OBD0 setup if I can get away with it, there are a few less things to worry about and the hardware is a lot cheaper. I have decided to go this route rather than develop the City ECU mainly because it gives me programmable ignition.
Trying to make big power of a dizzy ignition system requires expensive and time consuming re-graphing of the mechanical advance weights and nasty shite like that, very middle ages tech.
And after all, maximum timing is probably one of the most important factors when getting the most out of an engine, a couple of degrees of timing can mean 20-30hp
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probably premature but wondering if theres any plans for the gearbox itself and the body of the car ie. light wieght doors, plastic-ish windows, etcetera?
...I must admit this is all very exciting to follow!
. . . so once its all finished and running, you'll be putting together a bolt on CityTurbo 200hp kit I trust ?
...I must admit this is all very exciting to follow!
. . . so once its all finished and running, you'll be putting together a bolt on CityTurbo 200hp kit I trust ?
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