CityTurbo.com

Don't you mean it'd run a bit richer? More fuel than air would make it rich, yeah?
Also, surely vacuum would aid that?

It should be sweet. If your using crome just use the cylinder offset adjustment and start with 1.04 in that cylinder then when on the dyno play with the fuel either way and see where it makes more power.

Unless of you hook a wideband up to each runner in the exhaust so you can tune them sepratly or go for a dual throttle body setup.

It runs leaner because the air is forced by the turbo over the top of the other runners and hits the back of the manifold then shoots down that runner.
Not so much a problem with 4 cylinder but poor cut and shut jobs on RB's its almost guaranteed to melt the piston.


Anyway its going to have some nice low and mid power from the length of them.

Or he could always cut a taper piece out of it and weld a piece in so it tapers down to the end port, considering the work already done it doesnt look too difficult.

I did some more research and the taper is actually there to maintain velocity across the ports. If you think about it, there is less air after each runner so it needs to be in less space to maintain the same velocity.

http://josephrinek.com/intakemanifold.html

http://www.amsperformance.com/pdfs/intakemani.pdf

Having the ports come up off the floor of the manifold makes the air turn in there much easier too.

SR20 example

Note the angle of the throttle body there too.

Any updates?

Ok updates its been a little while.
The intake all finished with throttle cable mounted works sweet.

Had the turbo manifold machined they stung me an extra 30 because he had to build up about 3mm of weld either side to get it close to the center.wish they had called me I'd have done it myself.

After a few trips back and forth from my workshop to my mates we have got all the intercooler piping sorted. I will add the bov on the left hand side there later and plumb it back into the air box when I know exactly where it's going and what available space I have.


I hacked up the stainless dump pipe and bent it back in the right direction and tacked it all with mild steel,will weld it all up with the tig next week.pretty ugly but it will do.

When it's all welded up I will make up the rest of the exhaust using the civic exhaust I got with the engine.the waste gate will be plumbed into the exhaust after the dump pipe flange.

I pulled apart and cleaned up both the cv shafts and set about checking them to see how they need to be modified to fit.with an absolute stroke of blind dumb luck the long one is a perfect fit.
The short one will need to be shortened by around 60mm
To do this I had to buy some seamless 24.5 mm id steel tube to sleeve over the cut shaft.unfortunately the steel place did not have any in stock so I had to buy a whole length 6m! and ended up only using 110mm.might have to make a small black powder cannon....
The drive shaft will have to be turned down by about .7mm to fit,I hope to do this tomorow.
The shafts.

Nice, Shouldnt too much longer until you can start it up.

O yeah forgot to mention I have installed the main bit of the wiring loom behind the dash and soldered the city loom plug from the ignition to the civic loom.
I have identified the acc,starter,and constant wires.
I am guessing the other two are fuel pump? Any one confirm?

Machined down the axle by .7mm

Drilled a few 8mm holes to plug weld for a bit of extra connection

All welded up,I think I got pretty good connection

Pulled the engine out again and painted the mounts with a pressure pack that fairly closely matches the color.


Made up a nice sturdy steel battery tray for the little deca sealed battery,I hope it has the balls to run this engine?

My mates tig died a few weeks back so we have been waiting to weld up the dump pipe and a couple of alloy bits here and there.just got it back from boc today.

Doesnt take much power to start honda engines, Even more so when the compression has been dropped.

Had a mate jump start his car with 9XAA batterys out of all his controllers and from around they house. They got hot as hell but they started it lol.

Just dont leave your sounds pumping with out the engine running.

bmgjet wrote:Doesnt take much power to start honda engines, Even more so when the compression has been dropped.

Had a mate jump start his car with 9XAA batterys out of all his controllers and from around they house. They got hot as hell but they started it lol.

Just dont leave your sounds pumping with out the engine running.

Takes a bit more juice to run mine, since it's so worn >.> But jeez, 9x AA batteries? That is awesome Probably not hugely safe, though. hah

Not safe at all lol. If you leave them attach they will explode no doubt.
But there is no other way to start a auto with a flat battery.