Still wont start

[CIV2NV]

I have a 1980 eb civic that i have done a conversion on and it was going well for about two months but now it doesnt want to start, it has been to an electrican for three weeks and they cant seem to find the problem.

The computer is no showing any codes and the timing has been checked, i can get it going sometimes but when it is going you can not increase the revs (touching the throtle does nothing unless wide open and then it just dies). Injectors have just beeen checked for leaks and cleaned.

If anybody has any ideas it would be a great help as i am running out of them.

Cheers

[James]

Did you get my latest PM reply? I think the forum errors might have swallowed it up.

I think I said to make sure the cam timing is bang on, and also to check if the injectors are stickiing on by holding a screwdriver on them and your ear on the other end (actually says that in the Honda manual heh).

Apart from that im starting to run out of ideas too, hopefully someone has a clue!

[CIV2NV]

No i didnt get the reply but have checked cam timing several times and is bang on. And injectors were checked and cleaned about a week ago.

[James]

Do you know what was checked? The test I said is easy and gives you piece of mind your injectors are all firing, especially the CVCC one.

[madmini]

hi,you say have checked timing/cam timing ect..but just a thought have you tested how much current there is at the spark plug end of the ht leads? i had a coroll years ago went from 4cyl to 3,then by the time igot to work was on 2cly and al it was,old ht leads replaced then and it went for another 200.000kms,but if you have correct fuel pressure going in,no error codes,and good spark it should go,another thing is dizzys can clap out on these,theres verious threds on this within the site but happend to me youd floor ir and it would die the did stop for good,put another dizzy in and it was off,worth a look.

[CIV2NV]

Injectors flow and firing was checked but i will try listening with a screw driver if i can get it going again.

I put brand new leads on about 1000kms ago and i have tested the resistance of all the leads annd they all seem fine. Yes i think i need to try anouther dizzy, do anyone have a good one they would like to sell?

No i havent resoldered the main relay joints yet, would this cause it to be guttless though i would of thought if there is a bad connection it wouldnt go at all.

[madmini]

i'd fix the realy wires 1st before anything,these carry the main power output to the likes of the coil ecu dizzy among other things,its even possible that if your wiring/realy is dodgey it could well have done more damage now than what was before,ie fryed dizzy ect,repair the wiring/realy then see if she goes,if not pull a plug out and connect it to a lead and crank the car over and see how strong the spark is if its weak then either dizzy/coil is buggerd.

[James]

I was thinking about your problem on the bus this morning and thinking that it more and more sounded like a CVCC injector problem. So check its firing, and check its tiny throttle body isn't blocked.

I probably have a spare dizzy you could borrow to try. If yours is stuffed it will be the ignitor most likely, which is $100+ to fix so its worth trying another one before shelling out for that.

[mangusta]

I had a similar set of symptoms on my motor when I first got the car, only way to get it to run was with turbo taken out of circuit and with full throttle, but would barely idle.

Turned out the head had gone and was fouling plugs etc, pull out your plugs and whizz it over, check nothing comes out, even if head isn't gone you could have water in manifold or something odd like that fouling plugs etc...

[James]

I had a similar set of symptoms on my motor when I first got the car, only way to get it to run was with turbo taken out of circuit and with full throttle, but would barely idle.

Turned out the head had gone and was fouling plugs etc, pull out your plugs and whizz it over, check nothing comes out, even if head isn't gone you could have water in manifold or something odd like that fouling plugs etc...

Yeah I hadn't even thought of something that major, plugs are a good place to look yeah. Compression test is probably not a bad idea while you have the plugs out.

[CIV2NV]

I cant seem to get it to go again to test the CVCC injector but i have taken the plugs out and done a compression test, there is no signs of water on thew plugs and there is 120psi in each cylinder with it dead cold.

I think trying anouther dizzy would be a good idea.

Im just about to re-solder the relay now, can anyone tell where number 5 (IG.SW) should go from the relay? And i dont think it will be the coil thats buggered as i put a new bosch GT40r coil on about 6 months ago.

[James]

I cant seem to get it to go again to test the CVCC injector but i have taken the plugs out and done a compression test, there is no signs of water on thew plugs and there is 120psi in each cylinder with it dead cold.

I think trying anouther dizzy would be a good idea.

Im just about to re-solder the relay now, can anyone tell where number 5 (IG.SW) should go from the relay? And i dont think it will be the coil thats buggered as i put a new bosch GT40r coil on about 6 months ago.

So your running a resistor with the GT40r? Thats interesting you went from the factory non resistor coil to a resistor one, when you can get a gt40t that drops right in.

The only wire that goes from the main relay to the ignition switch is the black/yellow one that goes to IG1 on the ignition switch.

You could check the injector goes while you crank it if your sparky has a scope.

[mangusta]

If you have put a GT40R coil in, you may have cooked the coil. City runs elec ignition, have to check the manual, but most elec ignition runs significantly higher input voltage on the coil (eg nissan run as much as 400V in to the coil) an R coil is only rated for 9V, and it will cook on most Electronic ignition cars.

Check it for arc marks across the low tension side, and check the manual for input voltage on city turbo... also as Bigelboe said, get a GT40t instead

[James]

I hadn't considered that ^^ The transistor does work differently from a points system.

I have preivously used a gt40r for a brief period of time along with a resistor but it might not be a viable long term solution for the above reasons. Supercheap can order in the GT40t for about $75, was the cheapest place I found.

You should be able to find the specs for the gt40r and check if the primary is still OK. If you have been running it without a resistor you can almost guarantee its fuckt. (not meaning any offense, I fried a resistor coil like that too).

[CIV2NV]

Ok i am running a resistor as the electrician just used the old civic coil setup and just connected the dizzy to that and it was running for about 6 months set up like this but is it posible that i could have stuffed the coil just recently?