I'm developing a performance suspension package for City's

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turbocab
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Postby turbocab » Wed Dec 10, 2008 8:20 pm

i can see her now hands on hips saying twelve hundred fing dollars no fing way what about my christmas present :lol:

you should have seen the big computer controlled lathe at the place my old man used to work,wish i still had that to use.

how do i know what size and or type 3 jaw i need?

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tom
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Postby tom » Wed Dec 10, 2008 9:27 pm

hmmm sounds very tempting :D Depends on how much i save up over the holidays but i would defiantly be up for this in the near future. Good work on the constant motivation and skill to come up with these good ideas

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ProT
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Postby ProT » Wed Dec 10, 2008 10:08 pm

I'm interested in

Rebuilt, shortened Factory struts with new valving to match
New springs for a firmer sportier lower ride
Polyurethane bushings for lower control arm inner and front radius arm, swaybar mounts, rear control arms etc.

Optional:
Roll centre adjusters for fixing the less than ideal geometry from going low. (spacers for the lower ball joint and a new tie rod end)
Bigger Rear swaybar (adjustable)
And upper mounts for camber and castor and adjustable lower arms for camber and castor.

As I'm in Australia, would it be easier to get the original springs re-set locally to suit your modified struts?

Your talking $NZ600-800? for the base pack?

Any suitable lathes on Trademe?

I've sent you a PM.

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classichondasrule
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low or not?

Postby classichondasrule » Thu Dec 11, 2008 10:26 am

hey bigelboe, i was wondering about how low you were planning for a base package, as low is nice but i have a lowered 5thgen civic and we have a lot, no lots of speed ramps and it got to be a knightmare travelling 3 miles and scraping the exhaust or something else on every bump.

so do i need to go lower or low to gain some extra stability or stiffness or would it be possible to keep the standard height and get a sportier ride ?

i need to get over those ramps safely..

would that be a possibility or would i have to go full package and then adjust the height?

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James
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Postby James » Thu Dec 11, 2008 11:33 am

tom wrote:hmmm sounds very tempting :D Depends on how much i save up over the holidays but i would defiantly be up for this in the near future. Good work on the constant motivation and skill to come up with these good ideas


Cheers man :D This is all looking really positive and that it might actually happen!!

Dean:

In short no you wont have to go lower. The only performance benefit going lower has it a slightly lower center of gravity., but you actually lose performance in other areas, thats what the roll-center adjusters are for. So pretty much lowering is mainly for cosmetic reasons :D.

Im thinking for the base package, 50-60mm lower than factory is probably a good place to be? This gets the ground clearence down to about 100mm at the lowest point from the factory 160mm (100mm is the lowest you can go without certification in NZ). I drive my car with 100mm and its fine, the short wheelbase means you don't really get hung up on speed bumps and things. Will need someone to double check the ground clearence on their T2 and T1, crossmember should be the lowest point.

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classichondasrule
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low or not?

Postby classichondasrule » Thu Dec 11, 2008 12:14 pm

thanks man,

i'd be happy with a small drop in height but improved suspension to go for a sleeper look, because the cops don't give me a first look, never mind a second look. lol. (and have the other city as a low riding tarmac kisser.)

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James
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Postby James » Thu Dec 11, 2008 2:31 pm

Well its sort of started, I just bought 4 sets worth of o-rings for the struts :P The easiest part to get.

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3GCVC
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Postby 3GCVC » Thu Dec 11, 2008 4:22 pm

sure i might be in for something i can help out with a car to test things on and mess with some general things il have a look at a rear sway bar i have an idea will fit.

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James
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Postby James » Fri Dec 12, 2008 8:28 am

OK Currently sorting out something with Glen (ProT) looks like we may go into some form of partnership. With him handling the bushings and swaybars and things for those of you in Aus. Should be able to get a fairly firm price in the next few weeks and then we can get a solid list of people who are interested and work out the economics of this thing.

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James
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Postby James » Fri Dec 12, 2008 10:49 am

Shaft bearings for one set are ordered, these are the main part that wears out and causes the seals to fail and leak :) Finally there should be a solution to all those leaky shocks people can't replace. Just have to find the shaft and piston seals now.

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Postby turbocab » Fri Dec 12, 2008 2:22 pm

good stuff
keep us posted.
matt

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James
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Postby James » Fri Dec 12, 2008 3:06 pm

Yup when I go to SKF tomorrow to pick up the bearings I will take the seals and stuff as well as it says on their website they manufacture shock absorber seals but they don't have on their online catalog.

Still trying to find a suitable lathe. Decided the one on trademe for $1k was slightly too small, and the next up in size in new lathes is $1700, bit of a jump however it does come with a 3-jaw, 4-jaw and a tool set. To pay that, or at least most of it off in 5-7 sets (max Im expecting) would make it more expensive for all of you guys so I am on the lookout for an older second hand one or something. I dunno, it would possibly be a good investment, will think it over.

Matt about the lathe chucks, I think they just thread on so you probably just have to find out what thread yours has? Im not sure if thats how the bigger ones work tho. Surely someone on here has some experience with them? Ive only used them never pulled them apart.

turbocab
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Postby turbocab » Fri Dec 12, 2008 5:25 pm

to be honest ive not even looked at how i would remove the chuck,its not really high on my list of prioritys at the moment.
had a look at welding that bar between the rear strut towers today,i have decided to weld a bracket on either side and make the piece of 25x25 square section removable so i can still use the boot space if required.
matt

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James
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Postby James » Fri Dec 12, 2008 5:55 pm

Sweet as. Remember the bar is in tension so design the bracket accordingly.

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James
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Postby James » Fri Dec 12, 2008 7:35 pm

OK so here are some pics to outline my idea for an adjustable rear swaybar.

Image

Image

So pretty straight forward really. Get a swaybar made up that is the shape in blue, just a straight bar with 2 90 deg bends on each end. Have this bar threaded at each end. Drill extra holes in the rear lower control arm at approx 25mm spacing (roughly shown in pink), then to adjust you just have to back off the locking nuts, undo the nut holding the swaybar link to the lower control arm, and shuffle it to where you want. Could probably use stock end links with a different bushing. Can draw this up pretty soon actually and get a price. This will be the thing I recommend to everyone, should be good bang fo buck performance increase.

Because quite a small range of adjustment, say around 150mm can change the motion ratio of the swaybar hugely, it should be quite effective. Just imagine how little it would move on the inner most mount when you suspension compresses, compared to the outermost mount.


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