Dxs's 'getting his t2 on the road' log

Post whatever you like in here but try to keep it Honda City related!
User avatar
Dxs
Forum Enthusiast
Posts: 192
Joined: Thu Oct 30, 2008 11:23 am
Location: Melbourne, Australia

Dxs's 'getting his t2 on the road' log

Postby Dxs » Sat Jan 17, 2009 8:01 pm

Hey guys,

Maybe i should first introduce myself. I am Daniel from Melbourne. I recently bought 'brendan's t2 he had forsale. Had it transported from bris to melb without even seeing it. Knew it was quite a gamble.. but now it is here and it will need a fucken shit load of work. :p So thought i would create this thread as a log for myself.

I am not too bad mechanically, but the t2 has some strange setups that i am not used to. (i have previously owned a 86 integra, 93 club k silvia, and 90 crx sir). I plan to make this a solid daily driven machine.

Anyway, here are some pics.

Image
Image
Image


Now here is a list of problems that i have so far compiled:
>Missing a lot of random pieces throughout the car and some dodgey work (eg no pass sunvisor, no interior light plastics, clamp connected to -terminal with self tapping screw etc etc etc)
>Numerous rust patches.. many seem small, but the some are flakey and of concern.
>Radiator seems quite rusty and level of fluid is not visable
>oil level is too high and milky (presume rad fluid is getting into oil)
>Idle is high
>Front left has been in a accident and engine bay is a bit creased up


Image
Image

Now i havent even driven it out of 1st gear. But i do presume the headgasket is gone due to the colour of the oil.. milky, and that it is at a high level and that there is missing rad fluid.

But my plans so far is to do a compression test, fill up the radiator, and check for smoke and work from there.

Hyperblade
Moderator / Donating Member
Posts: 1217
Joined: Sat Feb 21, 2004 9:31 am
Location: Christchurch, New Zealand

Postby Hyperblade » Sun Jan 18, 2009 5:54 am

Looks like the head gasket has gone, and your getting the water from your rad into your oil, i suggest you dont run the car, last thing you want is bearings going too.

Your going to have to take the head off, when you do make sure you get the block checked, as its probably the cause, it was never taken out of the car, and with the T2's it can be out, by a lot.

User avatar
Dxs
Forum Enthusiast
Posts: 192
Joined: Thu Oct 30, 2008 11:23 am
Location: Melbourne, Australia

Postby Dxs » Sun Jan 18, 2009 8:13 am

yeah, that is the conclusion i have come to. (havent done a compression test or anything)

in regards to the block, are you just talking about checking if the block is flat?


I guess i should try to source a gasket kit, oil filter, new water pump, and maybe some arp studs..

hmm
viewtopic.php?p=14218 (reference link for my log)

User avatar
James
Moderator / Donating Member
Posts: 3092
Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2003 1:59 pm
Location: Putaruru
Contact:

Postby James » Sun Jan 18, 2009 9:07 am

Have a look at the oil on your dipstick, if its OK I would run it for a bit to get it warm, checking for bubbles in the rad. Then do a compression test and inspect the numbers. If one is low chuck 1tsp of oil in there and record how much it goes up by (syringe is good for this). If all are low try this in all.

User avatar
Dxs
Forum Enthusiast
Posts: 192
Joined: Thu Oct 30, 2008 11:23 am
Location: Melbourne, Australia

Postby Dxs » Sun Jan 18, 2009 9:14 am

well the oil is milky.. i have never seen oil such a grey colour
and it is above the max mark on the dipstick.

as hyper said, i dont want to damage bearings etc with a diluted oil. but then i dont even know the engine condition

User avatar
Dxs
Forum Enthusiast
Posts: 192
Joined: Thu Oct 30, 2008 11:23 am
Location: Melbourne, Australia

Postby Dxs » Sun Jan 18, 2009 1:40 pm

here is what has happened so far:


*there was little coolant to begin with, it needed 3.5L
*When i filled it, with no rad cap, and cranked it.. a shit load of rad fluid came out of the radiator
*Very hard to start the car. and couldnt start it when i tried a third time with the rad cap on
*little bits of black material came up in the rad, seems a silvery gasket (reminds me of exhaust gasket) but not much
*little smoke sometimes.. sometimes mild popping/missing?
*cold start revs were 3.5k!
*found a pin hole leak in the coolant piping that runs under the manifolds?
*some very mild white smoke, not constant.. very mild
*when i cranked with cap on.. it just pushed heaps of water into the overflow bottle, filled it up in no time..
*engine is overall running like a dog


so what i am thinking
>could be a coolant blockage somewhere? seems weird that coolant would rush out of the rad or if the cap is on, into the overfill (never seen such a thing before)???
>headgasket gone, coolant getting in one cylinder? hence popping..




i plan to pull the spark plugs to check them, and do a compression test soon (left my tools in someones car)


i basically would appreciate any diagnoses for anyone ...
gonna go hit some waves now to relax

Hyperblade
Moderator / Donating Member
Posts: 1217
Joined: Sat Feb 21, 2004 9:31 am
Location: Christchurch, New Zealand

Postby Hyperblade » Sun Jan 18, 2009 4:40 pm

Dxs wrote:in regards to the block, are you just talking about checking if the block is flat?


I guess i should try to source a gasket kit, oil filter, new water pump, and maybe some arp studs..


Yes it won't be flat, no one normally takes the time to take the block out, to much work, and so they never get checked.

Your engines buggered, best to pull it to bits rather then damaging it more.

If you don't want to do to much work you could just pull the head off and replace the gasket, but it will just blow it again.

User avatar
James
Moderator / Donating Member
Posts: 3092
Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2003 1:59 pm
Location: Putaruru
Contact:

Postby James » Sun Jan 18, 2009 7:30 pm

You dont need to take the block out of the car to check the block, just need to find someone with a precision straight edge and some feeler guages.

I wouldnt say its definite it will blow if you put it back together without decking the block, I have done that on a number of engines and they are still going, not a City motor tho.

But anyway, its a good idea to check for piece of mind anyway. Might be worth pulling the engine if you are doing the waterpump and stuff anyway, and fixing that water pipe along the back (which can be a bit of a pain, try and find another one now, I replaced mine with a new one from Honda for an Accord motor).

User avatar
Dxs
Forum Enthusiast
Posts: 192
Joined: Thu Oct 30, 2008 11:23 am
Location: Melbourne, Australia

Postby Dxs » Sun Jan 18, 2009 7:57 pm

ok, so i will try to pull the head sometime this week.

also need to go and get a bunch of parts


is the non turbo city rear coolant pipe the same as the t2?


anyone have any idea why coolant pisses out when cranking etc?

User avatar
James
Moderator / Donating Member
Posts: 3092
Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2003 1:59 pm
Location: Putaruru
Contact:

Postby James » Sun Jan 18, 2009 9:50 pm

Possibly because the blown head gasket is pumping it out, but I would have expected it to piss gas out when running too.

User avatar
Dxs
Forum Enthusiast
Posts: 192
Joined: Thu Oct 30, 2008 11:23 am
Location: Melbourne, Australia

Postby Dxs » Mon Jan 19, 2009 11:32 am

yeah i was thinking maybe the cylinder pressure may be pushing it out.


well today i just pulled the plugs and valve cover..

valve cover is sludged up..

and cylinder 1 and 2 sparkplugs have coolant on them.



head looks easy to unbolt from the block.. except the oil pump drive? needs to be removed?
What kind of undoing sequence should i do? for the 10 nuts?



i believe the head has already been shaved.. but what about the block.. do i have to strip it down to have it shaved? this is my main concern.. i really dont want to strip it down.

User avatar
3GCVC
Forum Addict
Posts: 391
Joined: Sun May 27, 2007 5:17 pm
Contact:

Postby 3GCVC » Tue Jan 20, 2009 4:24 am

you dont need to strip down the head or block to have it machined, they will just clean it out by other means, and after they have done that its best to put it back together and get it in the car reasonbly quickly and run it so the moisture can come out,

User avatar
Dxs
Forum Enthusiast
Posts: 192
Joined: Thu Oct 30, 2008 11:23 am
Location: Melbourne, Australia

Postby Dxs » Tue Jan 20, 2009 7:01 pm

i hope for my case, that you are correct 3GCVC


my plans now are to pull the head to see how it looks under there.

then source some studs, seals and gaskets.. and look into shaving the head and block


is it tricky to get the cam and crank in the right position when putting the timing belt back on for these t2 engines? or are their nice markings etc?

User avatar
Dxs
Forum Enthusiast
Posts: 192
Joined: Thu Oct 30, 2008 11:23 am
Location: Melbourne, Australia

Postby Dxs » Wed Jan 21, 2009 4:56 pm

well disconnected most of the stuff off the head today..

i can wobble it around and coolant comes out of the gasket area.. just must be too damn heavy to lift. Any tips?


Also been in contact with a mate who works at a major parts distributor. He said he can get me a VRS kit for the city turbo!? I thought such things didnt exist.. so i might go order than.. and maybe a full gasket kit for the NA city for the same and crank seals etc? (would that work fine)

User avatar
James
Moderator / Donating Member
Posts: 3092
Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2003 1:59 pm
Location: Putaruru
Contact:

Postby James » Wed Jan 21, 2009 6:53 pm

Tripple check you have everything, all 10 head studs/bolts out/undone etc.

Have you left the manifolds on? Its heavy but doable with them on, just have to make sure you get all the brackets and things undone.


Return to “General”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 50 guests