Sealing up the engine bay + stitch weld etc? Discussion

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Dxs
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Sealing up the engine bay + stitch weld etc? Discussion

Postby Dxs » Fri Jun 12, 2009 11:08 am

basically just wondering on fellow members methods on dealing with rust, stitch welding, seam sealing and repainting of the engine bay.

I am pondering stitching all the seals in the engine bay while my motor is out. Any cons with this? Is it wise to leave the rest of the car with only the front welded up? I cant get a hold of a spot welder, so it will be done all with a mig, anyone have any special techniques?


Then in terms of sealing it, I know some of you use POR15. Can you paint this over the factory paint and a caulked seam sealant? And then just paint the colour over (it works as a primer)?


Or any other information on what people have done in terms of rust, welding/bracing and sealing.

cheers

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James
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Postby James » Fri Jun 12, 2009 11:31 am

POR 15 only does its job if its on bare metal, you're wasting it on anything else.

I don't believe there are any down sides to extra welds, apart from the slim possibility of distortion.

Cleam all factory seam sealer off unless its in perfect nick. Clean and POR 15 all seams then put seam sealer over the top, then prime and paint. POR 15 needs primer over the top of it before you topcoat too.

As for the MIG welding I just keep it realtively hot, try and clean as much of the seam sealer out before you weld it as its a pain when it flares up. I did little spots but turbocab had success with full beads and it looks nicer.

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Dxs
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Postby Dxs » Fri Jun 12, 2009 2:14 pm

well i presume i have to remove the sealer in the wheel arches too, to get to those seams. Any suggestions on what to use to reseal it? Is it a tar based substance, like where the skirts are too? (the closest i think i have found on the net is 3M Body Schutz.. is a rubbery substance that has sound deadening properties.. but 3M products arent easy to find here EDIT: found something like this.. K&H brush on underbody, which has a bitumen base.. sounds like a go.. i heard that POR15 can crack from rocks hitting it, allowing water to sit = rust)


For the bay i am now thinking i might just sand down the seams, stitch it.. then maybe some POR and then seam sealant to cover the stitches.. prime and colour with a isocynate free 2pack..

how far do people grind down their stitch welds too?

any criticisms/advice?

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James
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Postby James » Fri Jun 12, 2009 2:53 pm

Use proper seam sealer. There is a company out of aus that makes a good one. Its not tar based. Thats underseal I think you are thinking of


I am just sanding the tops of my welds with the grinder to make them a bit nicer and easier to cover with the seam sealer.

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Postby Dxs » Fri Jun 12, 2009 3:56 pm

yeah i understand the difference between seam sealer and the underseal.. maybe my writing expression is a bit vague.. but i was saying i will have to sand the underseal off to get to the seams there.. and then need something to replace that with..


I have found a seam sealer that i am happy with too.. TEMPRO brushable seam sealer.. goes quite hard instead of flexible like others.

but anyway...

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Postby James » Fri Jun 12, 2009 5:20 pm

Ah yup, some bituminous underseal would be the ticket. You can buy it in a spray can from 3M, that could be good if you are only doing the seams.

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Postby 3GCVC » Fri Jun 12, 2009 8:05 pm

I dunno about normal underseal why spend all that time taking the old stuff off only to put new on, there must be something that isnt as heavy and still protects well that can be put under there some 2k product that sets rock hard.

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Postby James » Fri Jun 12, 2009 9:00 pm

You dont want it hard, then it just chips. The underseal is worth it for the protection it offers the metal in everything but a balls to the wall race car IMHO.

Under the underseal in my civic the metal is *pristine*, no tiny rust spots or anything even right behind the wheel. Shit does its job well.

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Dxs
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Postby Dxs » Fri Jun 12, 2009 10:56 pm

3GCVC wrote:I dunno about normal underseal why spend all that time taking the old stuff off only to put new on, there must be something that isnt as heavy and still protects well that can be put under there some 2k product that sets rock hard.


just saying in reference to the seams in the wheel arches, just removing it where i plan to weld.. then i need something to recover those small areas with (presuming there are seams to weld in the arches).

also going to weld in a front corner, so will need to seal up where it mates

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Postby Dxs » Mon Jul 20, 2009 2:42 pm

any suggestions as to which areas benefit the most from some seam welding?

along the firewall where it meets the struts? or along the out side where it is sealed up near the door hinges?

looking for the best effort to result because it is unlikely i will tackle most areas.

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Postby QikLude » Mon Jul 20, 2009 4:10 pm

Doing the spot around the engine bay (and perferably the rest of the car) will stiffen the whole car up somewhat, doing plug welds with the MIG is a good option.
The seam sealer is bit of a pain but not the end of the world when doing the plug weld method.
Space them out 20mm along seam and things are all good :)

As for underseal under the car, i highly reccomend buying/borrowing an underseal gun to go on the likes of the 3m underseal cans and spray it.
Can do a real nice thin bitumen layer which looks nice even on the race cars and it stops a little of the stone noise and proects things if you put it under paint along side skirts etc (puts a little 'give' in behind the paint)
Can then also use cavity wax and squirt in those hard to reach places to seal.

Heres a shot under my city with bitumen underseal done - NOT BRUSHED!

Image

Cheers


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