My T2 runs rough on the second start up

[darren]

I am having a little trouble, My T2 will start first time every time and will run great all day but if i turn it off for any length of time and restart it, it will immediately start to run rough as i put my foot down (still idles fine) and the more i put my foot down the worse it seems.
If i nurse it for a while (not to much throttle) and put up with the what seems like missing it will eventually clear and again run great until i next stop and restart.
This is more than annoying as these are normally a great little fun car to drive as you all now.
Hope some of you can shed some light on this for me. Darren

[James]

Check for error codes first, but it sounds to me like it might be an ignition problem, perhaps the coil getting hot when you are sitting still and crapping out, then picking up after it cools down a bit when you are moving again.

[darren]

Thanks for the reply James, I have a new coil (GT40T), leads,rotor, dizzy cap and plugs.

I did run the tank low recently to the point were it would cough so could it be a blockage or air lock problem? (have had the tank cleaned),I was wondering is it a big job to pull the injectors off to clean and maybe the injector bar as well.or should i get it looked at by a fuel injection mechanic (if i find a decent one).

The only other thing I have done recently is get the alternator reconditioned.

The computer error light has not come on in the dash (it does work with ignition on before start up) so haven't bothered to look under seat for codes but I will do that next time it happens.

[James]

Could have a stuck injector or something I guess. Make sure each of them is firing with the engine idling. Place a screw driver blade on the injector and your ear on the handle, it will make a loud ticking, with the cvcc injector ticking 4 times for each main injector tick. removing them is pretty straight forward, cleaning them however is not a DIY job and often not that cheap, be upwards of $100 to have 4 cleaned and flow tested. The rail on the other hand is a simple affair.

Something unrelated, I wonder if the throttle position sensor is doing its job, sometimes they can get a bit bung without throwing an error. That would mean the ECU couldn't tell that you were trying to accelerate and would underfuel.

[foo]

Something unrelated, I wonder if the throttle position sensor is doing its job, sometimes they can get a bit bung without throwing an error. That would mean the ECU couldn't tell that you were trying to accelerate and would underfuel.

Hmm.. that's an interesting suggestion. I've been having the same problem as darren with my T1, having to feather the throttle at higher revs (under load) sometimes in order to keep it firing on all pots.

Last night on the way home it suddenly started hunting at idle between about 8rpm(!) and 1k rpm at about 0.7Hz (yep, nearly stalling each time) - tapping the throttle to get up over 2k would then stabilise it, another tap would send it back to hunting - not meaning to hijack darren's thread here but I wonder if we might be looking at the same fault with the TPS?[/quote]

[James]

Yours most definately sounds like a bung Throttle position sensor, hunting is directly related to throttle position.

[darren]

Well James I don't know what is going on I have been out a couple of times today and the missing or what ever it was is not there, it is a mystery but it may have just cleared itself, or it will be one of those great problems that keep coming back intermitently how knows????????????

I still want to get the injectors cleaned as i hope it will help with my very poor fuel consuption, if you have any more suggestions about this they would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

[James]

Do you have an 88degree thermostat in? Every city turbo I have seen has the incorrect 82 degree which in my case lead to around 1.5 litres per 100km more fuel use than was necessary.

[darren]

Yes I do have the 88 degree thermostat thanks to one of your threads and yes I was another one who had the 82 degree thermostat (also the spare engine I picked up last year had the 82 thermostat) and I would just like to say for the benifit of others it solved a few problems such as hunting, fast idle and alike.
I am only getting just over 10kms/litre or 10 litres/100kms as opposed to my City Pro getting 20kms/litre or 5 litres/100kms, what seems to be the average ?

I have just noticed in the info database you have the T1 timing at 28 before TDC and the T2 at 20 if this is right this may be some of the problem as I have my T2 at 28 which I thought I read some where but of course cannot find were.

[James]

Thats good about the thermostat, I got around 7-8 litres per 100km fuel consumption in my car when it was going, spec sheet city consumption is closer to 6L/100km so you have something not quite right. maybe a stuck fuel pressure regulator? Seems unlikely tho.

The timing is something I have never been able to satisfactorily explain. T1 timing is clearly 28degrees advance, its on the flywheel, its in the manual its on the underside of the bonnet etc. T2 timing is the same, its in the manual, its on t2 flywheels its under the bonnet, and its 20 degrees. This isn't a small difference. I normally just advance by ear until the idle sounds about right, and there is no pinking, this usually ends up being about 28 I think.

[darren]

Thanks James
My flywheel is only marked with the TDC mark and no other markings at all, (I have heard this in previous threads)and my bonnet has been resprayed after a smash with all that info lost, as with the fuel consumption I will just keep working on it.
On a different matter do you have any ideas on how to find out were the car came from before it hit Australia, (NZ or somewhere else) do the NZ cars have any thing special on them being markings or pollution stuff or alternatively does anyone know where the bulk of the T2's over came from, I am assuming none were imported straight from Japan is that right?

[James]

I thought the majority were imported directly to Aus from Japan, there were a few companies referred to on here in years past that imported them I thought. We don't put any markings on Japanese cares here when they are imported.

The only reason I can think of for only having the TDC mark is if the flywheel has been lightened, the TDC mark goes around onto the periphery while the timing marks are on the sloping bit that you usually take off if you are lightening.

[AyeZer]

In this time, how much did a 88degree thermostat cost? I have a plan buying this for my brother. He really needs it and I want to give to him this as my Christmas gift.


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[darren]

I got mine from Astral Honda part no HO-19300PB2817 and you must get the rubber gasket as well part no HO-19305PC6000 (the gasket looks wrong but it is good just clamp it between the head and the thermostat housing) He said they were listed as Accord 86-89 all up they were $53.54

[James]

They should still be available from Honda, part numbers are around if you search. Mine cost around $35NZD I believe, and came with a new gasket I think, or they gave me one free I don't remember.