Hey guys,
Well i have tried to figure out what the problem is with my car, when it is left to sit for a while it is like the power is being drained out.
When i turn the key the lights will go on very dim and it will make no sound, it wont tick over or anything.
When i jump start the car she runs perfectly fine. If i turn it off it will start again, i was told it may be the starter motor. I have tested for alternator, by taking the leads off while it was running and also used a charge meter and that said it was charging fine.
Any help is awsome
Cheers.
city turbo 2 not starting...
Re: city turbo 2 not starting...
2fast4u wrote:Well i have tried to figure out what the problem is with my car, when it is left to sit for a while it is like the power is being drained out.
When i turn the key the lights will go on very dim and it will make no sound, it wont tick over or anything.
Hi! Definitely sounds like a flat battery. When you say "sit for a while", how long do you mean? 1 day? a week? 5 minutes?
2fast4u wrote:When i jump start the car she runs perfectly fine. If i turn it off it will start again,
Ok... since it starts ok shortly after a successful jump-start, this means that your wiring (as far as getting the battery to the starter) and your starter are probably fine. It may also mean that your alternator is probably ok (it might be weak, but it's clearly acheiving something). This is what leads me to think that your main issue is just a flat battery. As for why it's flat though...
2fast4u wrote:i was told it may be the starter motor. I have tested for alternator, by taking the leads off while it was running and also used a charge meter and that said it was charging fine.
It sounds like you either have a battery that is dead (or near dead) and isn't holding a charge over time, or you have something draining your battery while everything should be "off".
By "charge meter" are you referring to an ammeter you have hooked up? If so, check how much current is being drawn from the battery while the car is sitting with everything off (you hook the ammeter in series with the battery). If there is much current flowing you can then hunt down the cause to stop it flattening your battery (by dicsonnecting gear and/or pulling fuses). A small amount of "leakage" current is normal, perhaps a few dozen mA for things like central locking kits, turbo timers, clocks (including head units etc), but you shouldn't be seeing significant power usage (more than perhaps 80mA, but even that might be on the high-side, not sure tbh).
If by "sit for a while" you mean a week, then yeah, that's not too surprising, depending on the state of the battery. Mine is lucky to get out once a week these days, so I am regularly hooking up the charger to keep it topped up. This is especially important if you have a relocated battery (ie, the battery is in the boot or behind the driver's seat) as you get additional voltage drop from the extra cabling.
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similar problem
Hi
I have encountered the same problem or near to it, in my T2,
battery is new, and it pops fine when you crash start it, the only thing is it wont even turn over, you hear the fuel pump run, then the little click and normally you would turn it over fine but when I crank it all you hear is like a little *clunk* which makes me think after talking to a friend that its the solenoid in the starter???
needing a new starter motor?
I want to give it a lil whack and try turn it over again but could someone tell me *exactly* where it is located?
Kind Regards,
Hayden
I have encountered the same problem or near to it, in my T2,
battery is new, and it pops fine when you crash start it, the only thing is it wont even turn over, you hear the fuel pump run, then the little click and normally you would turn it over fine but when I crank it all you hear is like a little *clunk* which makes me think after talking to a friend that its the solenoid in the starter???
needing a new starter motor?
I want to give it a lil whack and try turn it over again but could someone tell me *exactly* where it is located?
Kind Regards,
Hayden
hey hayden.
well i was told the same by a mechanic. as you read above you need an ammeter and you need to test the batery for charge and also drainage when the motor is off.
do this by setting the ammeter to amp and connect the testers between the batery lead and batery temanal, not between both + and - teminals.
this shoukd be on a 0.03... if it is on like 0.049 then you have a leakage somewhere.
what the person did to narrow down my leak was to get me to hole the ammeter in place then he took out and replaced the fuses.
for me the problem is in the mains relay. try take out the ECU fuse first.
another thing you can try is when you charge it and run it for a good half an hour or so pop thet fuse out and let it stand for the amout of time and then pop it in and try run it.
this is what i do with my car when it is left to sit.
well i was told the same by a mechanic. as you read above you need an ammeter and you need to test the batery for charge and also drainage when the motor is off.
do this by setting the ammeter to amp and connect the testers between the batery lead and batery temanal, not between both + and - teminals.
this shoukd be on a 0.03... if it is on like 0.049 then you have a leakage somewhere.
what the person did to narrow down my leak was to get me to hole the ammeter in place then he took out and replaced the fuses.
for me the problem is in the mains relay. try take out the ECU fuse first.
another thing you can try is when you charge it and run it for a good half an hour or so pop thet fuse out and let it stand for the amout of time and then pop it in and try run it.
this is what i do with my car when it is left to sit.
Re: similar problem
Sub_Frequency wrote:I have encountered the same problem or near to it, in my T2,
battery is new, and it pops fine when you crash start it, the only thing is it wont even turn over, you hear the fuel pump run, then the little click and normally you would turn it over fine but when I crank it all you hear is like a little *clunk* which makes me think after talking to a friend that its the solenoid in the starter???
If it goes clunk then the solenoid is fine and the wiring is fine, you need a new starter motor.
Starter motor is the large cylinder sitting ontop of your gearbox, it has big fat wires that run directly to the battery so you should be able to track it down pretty easilly. Also look in the City Turbo manual for pictures. Infact, any older honda manual, city/civic/accord etc will have info you can use, they all look exactly the same.
2 bolts to remove the starter motor, can be done very easily in a few mins. When you get your new one make sure it is the correct one for your gearbox, T1 and T2 starters are not interchangeable.
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starter swap
Cheers Colza,
Will give this a go tonight when I get home from work
I'll be scrapping a T2 soon so im going to use it to whore a load of parts from it my runner
Will give this a go tonight when I get home from work
I'll be scrapping a T2 soon so im going to use it to whore a load of parts from it my runner
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Re: city turbo 2 not starting...
Is starter for t1 different to NA ?
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