So! Finally have my Turbo 2 up & running, my first manual car ever so having a blast with it etc.
Anyways last night went to drive home, probably 10 degrees outside...wouldnt go into 1st, but 2nd worked and 1st was fine after that. I've noticed though that after abit of a drive around, when I'm at the lights, the idle pulses. This only happens after driving for 5-10mins. Car has a strong steady idle otherwise. any ideas? I was thinking of having it dyno'd at some point to see how much power the thing is actually giving out as well - that something anyone else here has done? worthwhile?
IT'S ALIVE!
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Caleb
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woot!! good on ya for getting it going, it really gets that warm fuzzy feeling going wen someone gets there city turbo going in Perth =D as for the hunting thats your vac advance leaking, it happens to all of them over time (i have 4 altogether & they all leak) I'm going to send a few here to get recond http://www.advancediaphragmoptions.com/ as for anything else you may need i may be able to help & or kno where to go for help
congrats have fun with it! the idle hunting is not necessarily the vac advance,ive had mine fixed by that bloke and it still does it it has also been covered on this forum numerous times but as far as i know never ultimately solved,try also replacing every single vacuum hose,thats next on my list of solves for it.
matt
matt
So the vac-thing is abit of a querk for these cars? Thanks for that CJ the main things for my car will be getting the exhaust done & removing rust/respray when I have the dollars to do it. If I get the turbo dyno'd, what kinda figures should it be putting out, as in hp...I've only ever seen this on Top Gear where they have a 69 Mustang or something that had 250hp new producing 145 now kinda thing. How do I know the Turbo is even working actually? never had a turbo car before either...
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T1especial
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Yeah I get the impression something's not right as well....car wise anyways 
Should the Turbo Gauge on the dash be showing full bars the faster you go or the higher it revs etc? She seems pretty slow to me getting up to 100 on the freeway from a standing start...noticed a red light that flashes on when I do hit 100 last night though...thought maybe that meant the engine was about to self-destruct. 
Should the Turbo Gauge on the dash be showing full bars the faster you go or the higher it revs etc? She seems pretty slow to me getting up to 100 on the freeway from a standing start...noticed a red light that flashes on when I do hit 100 last night though...thought maybe that meant the engine was about to self-destruct. -
T1especial
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The Turbo gauge should be showing full bars if you are going hard foot to the floor, its an indication to the PSI you are running.
The red light you saw is just a speed warning light (if you are talking about the small rectangular light under the Speedometer)
Boost wise, your car isnt running right.
Do a compression test,
Check exhaust manifold for leeks,
Check all hoses,
Take piping off the front of the turbo and poke a digital camera down there and take a photo (will need flash) of the compressor wheel, check for bent fins.
The red light you saw is just a speed warning light (if you are talking about the small rectangular light under the Speedometer)
Boost wise, your car isnt running right.
Do a compression test,
Check exhaust manifold for leeks,
Check all hoses,
Take piping off the front of the turbo and poke a digital camera down there and take a photo (will need flash) of the compressor wheel, check for bent fins.
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spangleking
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Re: IT'S ALIVE!
Mine does it too.
a former moderator told me hiow to go about fixing it but I forgot how to
a former moderator told me hiow to go about fixing it but I forgot how to
ANTHRAXXX wrote:So! Finally have my Turbo 2 up & running, my first manual car ever so having a blast with it etc.
Anyways last night went to drive home, probably 10 degrees outside...wouldnt go into 1st, but 2nd worked and 1st was fine after that. I've noticed though that after abit of a drive around, when I'm at the lights, the idle pulses. This only happens after driving for 5-10mins. Car has a strong steady idle otherwise. any ideas? I was thinking of having it dyno'd at some point to see how much power the thing is actually giving out as well - that something anyone else here has done? worthwhile?
So! Thanks for your advise T1. After inspecting the engine bay I found 1 small tube that wasn't plugged in. Took the car for a hoon after that & she now has alot more power. Probably isn't tunning full boost etc etc but performed *so* much better. Abit annoying since I'd specifically asked the mechanic to check the turbo for me.
To get rid of the annoying beeping you need to take the cluster out and disconnect the wires to the beeper unit on the back, Think the wire colours are green and yellow but its fairly easy to identify.
If your not sure if its boosting correctly you should connect an aftermarket boost gauge to check.
As for the idle hunting check the fast idle valve they usually do that too and from dealing with all my other 80s hondas that is usually what fixes it.
There is a valve with water pipes going to it on the back of the manifold, with two screws holding a lid on top, unscrew them and take the lid off.
When the engine is warm you should be able to block the hole with your thumb and it will stop the idle hunting, If it does, adjusting the piston in the valve will usually fix the problem, Use a ruler or WIDE flat bladed screw driver to turn the piston (clockwise) back down to the bottom of the valve then re install the lid and all should be good.
If your not sure if its boosting correctly you should connect an aftermarket boost gauge to check.
As for the idle hunting check the fast idle valve they usually do that too and from dealing with all my other 80s hondas that is usually what fixes it.
There is a valve with water pipes going to it on the back of the manifold, with two screws holding a lid on top, unscrew them and take the lid off.
When the engine is warm you should be able to block the hole with your thumb and it will stop the idle hunting, If it does, adjusting the piston in the valve will usually fix the problem, Use a ruler or WIDE flat bladed screw driver to turn the piston (clockwise) back down to the bottom of the valve then re install the lid and all should be good.
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connorling
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craybait
- Donating Member
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- Location: perth western australia
t2 setup
If your stuck,in perth take it to overboost in malaga.Brian or Mick are the guys.To find them you have to drive to the address[they almost never answer the phone]they open about 1030 am,and there is no signage on there building the address is correct so drive,get out and walk and listen.
My t2 was on the dyno yesterday and had no boost due to a hole in some piping near the intercooler which had a plastic pipe and clamps slid over the metal pipe.Brian welded the hole and set max boost to 1.5 bar.full report soon
My t2 was on the dyno yesterday and had no boost due to a hole in some piping near the intercooler which had a plastic pipe and clamps slid over the metal pipe.Brian welded the hole and set max boost to 1.5 bar.full report soon
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