Hi guys
I know there's another thread about developing a performance suspension package for city turbos.
I'm just wondering are t1 or t2's front struts the same as city e's?
I've had mine off today to have a look into lowering it without cutting the springs.
If I remove where the brake pipe bolts upto on the strut casing and move it upwards I'd say I could lower the strut through about an inch/inch and a half before it starts fowling the cv gaiter.
Also are the struts oil filled or gas filled?
Anyone on here tried this already?
Anyways have a pic!
lowering a city e
- James
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You are able to lower as you say, by lowering the strut further down into the knuckle. It defeats the purpose of the bump-stop tho, and you may end up with something making contact with something it shouldn't under heavy bump. Like a wheel with a guard or your car with the ground.
Personally, if possible, I would combine this with cutting a coil or 1.5 coils off the springs, as this stiffens it up, which is what you want.
All struts have oil in them, just some are pressurized with gas to help control frothing of the oil. City ones don't have a full gas pressure inside them, although they have a small amount of pressure, thats what returns the shaft to the top of the stroke when you let go of it.
If you drill/grind off the old bracket, and tack weld a new one in place, that should be fine. The casing is quite thick.
Personally, if possible, I would combine this with cutting a coil or 1.5 coils off the springs, as this stiffens it up, which is what you want.
All struts have oil in them, just some are pressurized with gas to help control frothing of the oil. City ones don't have a full gas pressure inside them, although they have a small amount of pressure, thats what returns the shaft to the top of the stroke when you let go of it.
If you drill/grind off the old bracket, and tack weld a new one in place, that should be fine. The casing is quite thick.
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So if I were to drill through the strut casing to drain the oil it would render the strut useless as its realeased the gas?
I want to drill a hole, drain the oil out (measure the oil), tap the hole then fit a bolt and copper washer and fill with new oil or heavier oil to stiffen the shocker up.
Over here in uk you can buy coilover kits which means you have to cut off the bottom spring cup so I would need to drain the oil incase it explodes from welding on the adjustable spring cup.
I want to drill a hole, drain the oil out (measure the oil), tap the hole then fit a bolt and copper washer and fill with new oil or heavier oil to stiffen the shocker up.
Over here in uk you can buy coilover kits which means you have to cut off the bottom spring cup so I would need to drain the oil incase it explodes from welding on the adjustable spring cup.
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