Black box T2 Whats really needed?

[bmgjet]

Took it out today to check behind it for any rust which luckily and to my surprise there was none.

I decided to simplify it as well while I was there and the only thing I have connected up is the MAP sensors and idle enrichment knob.

Started up fine and took it around the block and couldn't notice any difference from how it was running.

So is any of that other stuff even needed?
The only things that were disconnected were the air filter and boost solenoid before I opened it up.

[3GCVC]

two map sensors, boost retard circuit and that idle enrichment thing,

think i also left the dash pot on the throttle plate which does something but everything else got the bin.

[bmgjet]

Whats the boost retard circuit?
Or is it just a vac line to the dizzy, Iv still got all that.

[bmgjet]

Took it for a drive to get up to full temp and to adjust idle with the lights on.
Running better then it use too, The small boost spike I was getting is completely gone now so I can crank the boost up more with out triggering the fuel cut.

[3GCVC]

theres two lines to the vac unit on the dizzy one controls the retard im sure of it.

[bmgjet]

Vac lines for the dizzy were ran straight from the manifold just below the dizzy.

Ill get a pic up tomorrow, Looks much better with out black box.

[bmgjet]

[Charles]

I do the same on conversions. Strip out the wiring loom a bit, take off the connectoirs and poke the map sensor wires and the idle mixture adjustment wires back into the cab. Pop the connections back on and mount them under the dash. Leaves a much cleaner engine bay and protects the sensors.

[James]

You basically do just need the MAP sensors. I have one other solenoid that switches vacuum to the bottom of the vacuum advance cannister that 3GCVCC is referring to.

[Charles]

Pretty sure that solenoid is linked to the temp sensor on the front of the block near the oil pressure solenoid. Until the car is warm the solenoid stays closed to retard the ignition and heat the car up quicker. It is an emission thing only. You can bypass it with no problem. The slow release throttle canister (another canister!) stops the crackle and backfires on a closed throttle (not good for the turbo). You might want to keep the idle up control solenoid.