whats this vacumn hose 4?

[Smithy]

I was checking out the engine again and noticed the second vacumn hose off the distributor cap (off the smaller looking vacumn advance bit??) had been taken off.  the hose had been pulgged with a screw..

so i've taken screw out and reconnected to vacumn adv. bit...

any idea what this one is for ?
it seems to split further on, one bit goes to the metal pipes which head up to driver side speghetti loop of pipes and the other carries on to the , well i dont know....the intake manifold somewhere? EFI? Sensors??

who knows...

any way what is it connected to and used for? why would it have been taken off??
and what consequences would this have on engine when off and if vacumn adv. WAS stuffed or something havin it back on won't screw it up???

help here please!!!

[BOOSTBOY]

The diagphram within the vacuum advance unit would be perished.  It would be the most occuring problem in the city turbo.  You wont get advanced timing at low engine loads, meaning it might drive a little more sluggish than normal.  That should be about all though.  Having it connected to a periched advance unit is like having an open hose though, so it may effect idle quality etc.  You may be better off leaving it blocked off.

Cheers

Glenn

[Smithy]

cool.....the idle is wierd.....sits on 1200 then drops to 650ish then climbs to 1200 then drop again....sometimnes....

I'll block off hose again...make sure airtight this time...

It did do it more after I put it back on though.....and was idling high before i put it back on too.


Itake it these diaphragms are virtually irraplaceable?
or where can I get one from??

:)   cheers dude.

[Smithy]

well im on my way to getting the vacumn advance diaphragm thingys...

rang HondaCare in Sumner Park (Brisbane)
the dude there (scottish fella) gave me their supplier
Westmore Honda (and to speak to Adrian I think, or was it scott).   Any way he's fax Honda Japan, says usually ten days to ge the part back here...

so hopefullt honda still ge tthose parts in...

I'll let you all know how much they want for it...
Any one else after this...seems like it from all the perished ones you talk about...!

Im getting a clutch plate through them to probably...

[BOOSTBOY]

Three out of the four ive got are perished!  Keep us informed mate, if you can get one in at a reasonable price im sure it'll stir up some interest around here!

[Smithy]

Holy cow....


heard back from the Scott at Westmore HOnda (behind the Regatta Hotel on Coronation drive)

that vacumn advance diaphragmn thingy.....
from Honda.....
you ready for this




TWO HUNDRED AND EIGHT DOLLARS.

shit.....I may still get one though....its not exactly a hard install is it....undo the screw holdn old one in...take it out slide in new one and screw back in connect hoses ...all good...

208...blimey.

109 for the clutch plate....probably get that too.

[Henry]

Fuel pressure can be checked by attaching a gauge to the top of the fuel filter, will take a workshop about 5 minutes. Mine did the old up and down idle thing, I think when the diaphram goes it upsets the mixture. You can adjust something to fix that, will take a photo tomorrow to show you where if someone can tell me how to post it. If you pull both hoses off and plug them it will be like having a non leaking one. You won't miss it,  I had my vacuum advance canister rebuilt by Performance Ignition Services, Unit 47, 41-49 Norcal Road, Nunawading, Vic 3131. Phone 03-98723644. Cost $25 plus tax. Just plug the tubes and drive normally while it is away.  Henry

[Smithy]

Sweet/......didn't know you could rebiuld the things?

Hey...how do they know the tolerences  (is this right) of the diapaphragms (frams) etc??   printed internally??

Im gunna ring some places over the next couple of day to see if theres any one local (Brisbane ish) who can rebuild them.....

I'll post places up for all the   All Brisbane CityTurbo HomeBoy Crew (word).

K.

[Henry]

There seems to be few that are having problems with the vac advance so will try to put it into perspective for you. There are two spark advance systems, centrifugal and vacuum. The centrifugal is a mechanical system in the lower part of the distributor that works with engine revs and advances the central shaft. This bit does most of the work and gives very little trouble. The vacuum advance works from manifild vacuum via the canister and advances the timing by rotating the top plate in the distributor. (two totally seperate systems) The vacuum advance advances the most when the manifold pressure is at it's lowest, ie highway cruising at low throttle settings, to give better economy. To test your vac canister, take the distributor cap off, disconnect both the tubes, connect a tube to the outlets one at a time and suck on the tube. If there is no restriction and nothing moves in the distributor, the diaphram is shot. Is the top plate rotates and holds there as long as you hold the vacuum then it is OK . If it's stuffed you should plug both the hoses and do something about the canister. If this fixes your erattic idle problem (plugging the tubes) then that was the problem with the idle. If it doesn't then something needs adjusting. If someone can tell me how to post a picture I will show you where to adjust. It is a minor mixture adjustment, that minor that I could get mine to run smoothly by applying the brakes. The load that the brake lights put on the alternator, and thus, the motor to drive it, was enough to smooth it out. Driving without the canister will be no different to driving with a stuffed one as you have been doing so get it off and get it fixed. I noticed very little difference with mine off or on.  I have a posting elsewhere on the forum re a Toyota canister which I will try to check out this week.      Henry

[Henry]

Forgot to put in the last post, others have tried to find fixers in Brisbane and Sydney without success but feel free to try.

[Henry]

Cab Fan,  you will find an idle speed adjusting screw on the drivers side end of the throttle shaft, phillips head with a cup type surround on the head, which points foreward. you should be able to wind this in a bit and keep it idling. Would suggest you then check the timing, and if you finish up with the erattic idle (the old up and down thing) look over the back of the throttle body and just near where those two hoses connect you will see the top of a "thing" about 1 inch across, round with two phillips head screws holding the top cover on. Just alongside the cover, in the body of the casting, you will find a slotted head screw, pointing straight down. Mark where this is now so that you can go back there if needed, and adjust either up or down half a turn at a time until it smoothes out.  Hope that solves your problem.  Henry

[Tony]

Hi everyone

I've just priced out a new T2 vacuum advance unit for DR86.  I can get new vaccum advance units here in NZ for approx $120NZD including courier to eastern OZ states (would probably be a little more for SA/NT/WA).  I don't mind sourcing these for you guys BUT it MUST be cash up front, preferably money order (sorry but I've been bitten too many times trying to help others).

I will need engine/chassis numbers, this will ensure you get the right unit as these will be non-returnable (sorry but I'm only doing this to help and am not going to spend all day running backwards and forwards to the Honda shop).

Email me at [email protected] if you want some help in sourcing these.  The courier company have told me approx 3 days for delivery to OZ.

Cheers

Tony  ;D