Too rich!

[QikLude]

[quote author=Charles link=board=GEN;num=1055994573;start=20#29 date=07/09/03 at 09:08:30]
Qiklude and Luke,

I am playing with an EG civic hatch now with a 2.0L hybrid DOHC vtec. Shooting for 300hp NA. And no I don't want a city cab. Thanks anyway.[/quote]

yeah that sounds like fun

I was think of converting my 2.0 honda into the same sort of hybrid thing, but decided just to put other stuff on insted... Like a bigger turbo

Im guessing that b18 vtecs are quite hard to get hold of in oz?

Jw

[Charles]

B18c and B16a have about the same availability and are actually easier to get than the CRV B20B. But add a B20B block to a B16A head (stock cams etc) and you end up with more power than a Type R B18C. A type R b18C in Aus is worth about $5K and if you can get more power for about $2500 by combining B20 and B16 with unlimited potential for upgrade (unlike the B18C R which is close to it's NA limit) well why wouldn't you?

Turbo may come later depending on how happy I am with the final NA product. Figuring around a reliable 500hp with the right set up and turbo on the B20 vtec.

[crooky]

It has got a one way valve in there as well but I see your point.  What is code 6 (lights 2 & 4) though on the ECU? Is it the result of the bleeder or due to a different sensor?

[Charles]

Crooky,

Code 6 is water temp sensor. Make sure it is plugged in and test when it is in the car, check for shorts. As this has been mentioned multiple times I am sure you have checked the actual sensor but it may be a short in the wires leading to it.

If per chance you have not checked the sensor read up on how to do it early in this thread. It is the large plug on the gearbox end of the head.

This should resolve your issues. When it is not working it tells the ECU that temps are in the minus. So you get heaps and heaps of fuel especially on boost as the ECU is trying to look after the engine as it thinks some fool is trying to give it full boost on an engine that is below 0 in engine temp.

[crooky]

Thanks for your help Charles, car is basically fixed.  Running better now though still stumbly at idle (not due to fuel though, A/f ratio at idle is about 14.7:1)  I think the vacuum diaphragm might be gone).  When I remove that vaccuum line it idles better (no hunt) but drives worse (especially when backing off accelerator).  The car is pretty sluggish off boost.  Still idles too low and doesn't sound good when cold.  Any ideas?

[Charles]

Block your vacuum hose that leads to diapragm if when a hose is hooked to the diaphragm you can suck air. At stock boost they can take a bit of extra timing so just give it a few extra degrees (very steady steady on this one). Check the timing first.

Then once you are happy with the timing play with that idle mixture control in the Map sensor box i mentioned. Don't worry about AFR in this case just tune it so it runs as sweet as possible at idle.

Charles

[crooky]

Ok.  Advanced timing and adjusted mixture.  Car still idles sort of badly but is a lot more responsive.  Accelerates fairly well now but does not cruise very well and is especially bad when backing off the throttle.  Exhaust is a bit poppy at this point and the engine occasionally has a bit of a miss.  Not sure if that is fuel related or due to the 2.5 inch exhaust, but the car is still using too much fuel.  The car idles very low and rough on cold start and then idles up once the car warms up, which makes me think that the auto choke may be clogged (The idle up screw is not all the way in).  I can't undo the farken screws on autochoke reservoir without taking the throttle body off...should I do this and clean the auto choke thingy out (boostboy already told me I should do this but was unsure of the best way to go about it.?  Advanced the timing around a full from where it was without pinging which makes me suspicious that something else is seriously farked up. A honda mechanic told me that it could be CVCC/valve clearances and/or valve/cam timing.  Does anyody have the specs for these?  If I can get these, I can probably save some time and money.  Getting there.... slowly... slowly.  Now that the boost/fuel cut thing is eliminated, it might be easier to pinpoint the main probs.  Would the car run like this if the CVCC injector is wide open?

[crooky]

Just checked the autochoke reservoir (was a lot easier than I thought) and found a farkin bolt in there!  Some turkey had ground down a bolt and rested it in the neck of the mechanism, effectively blocking water flow.  I took it out and car ;D ;D ;D ;D now drives pretty damn well and idles 10 times better.  Not as smooth as my late model mazda, but not too bad for an old honda.  Hopefully now fuel economy will improve along with driveability.  This guy that had the car before me must have been a farkin idiot!  Thanks Charles and boostboy...youre a couple of legends and I hope you guyz stick around to answer any more seemingly stupid questions I am bound to ask.   ;D ;D ;D ;D

[BOOSTBOY]

Good feeling to finally sort an annoying tail chasing problem like that hey!?

[Smithy]

Grand news my good man!
Now if you would be so kind as to explain this
"autochoke reservoir" that you speak of.
And do, please tell me of its location and what of its exact purpose ?!?!

cheers !

--------------------------------
Hurry for everone for there help!!!

[crooky]

I'm no mechanic so Boostboy or Charles would be able to answer this better.  The autochoke is a small round metal reservoir with a longish metal stem-like thing and one or two (can't remember) small hoses underneath on the outside.  On the inside it is like a small cup on top with a metal screw/bolt and rubber seal underneath going down the stem.  It is located behind and on the passenger side of the throttle body.  Look for a small round metal lid about 3-4cm across held on by two phillips head screws.  Next to it in the casing is a flat head screw.  i think this is your idle up control and controls how much the autochoke effects the running of the car.  If you screw it all the way in, the revs will go lower, especially when car is cold.  As for how the autochoke works, I guess it must have something to do with mixtures/revs based on water temperature because if this mechanism doesn't work, cold starts can be a bitch (really low idle) and when the car reaches running temperature the car can think that it is still cold causing it to run rich.  It does effect driveability (especially when there's a bloody great bolt in there!).  Also, as boostboy mentioned it can get clogged up with shit causing the same kinds of problems.  This is more than likely if you haven't flushed system and changed coolant for ages and you get all that buildup of brown scum in your cooling system.  I can only guess that the guy who put the bolt in mine was trying to disguise another problem that the car had (faulty water temp sensor) but once this was fixed, the car had serious problems.  Somebody more knowledgeable should be able to extend or correct what I've just said but that's my understanding of how it works.

[Colza]

Wow, Ive always wondered what that little screw thing did cool.

Congrats on your car going at last! MY CAR GOES TOO!!!
And damn dont it feel great :D:D