KingCity

Post pictures and details of your Honda City
KingCity
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Posts: 268
Joined: Wed Aug 18, 2010 9:08 pm
Location: Waipukurau, New Zealand

KingCity

Postby KingCity » Fri Aug 29, 2014 7:56 pm

THE CITY LIFE

Here is the beginning of it all, i once owned a EVO 7, DC5 Type-R & S2000 & many more Vtec's but i got a taste of the Honda City & the rest is history. Now here are the photos of that history.

Right! THE VERY FIRST CITY (The Silver Slug). This car was only bought to get me & any of my belongings that i could fit in the car from Christchurch to the Hawkes bay about 9 years ago, it was thrashed & neglected from day one (after the maiden voyage of 650ks) Owned/Lasted for a couple months, skids & paddock hacking killed this car :lol:

Honda City-E (Black Top N/A)
Bought for $500, WOF & REG
Mods:
1. Removed Front & Rear Springs
2. Removed Bonnet
3. Yellow Leads
4. Painted Rocker Cover (Silver)
5. Fancy Aftermarket Sunroof

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THE SECOND CITY. (The Silver Bullet)
Honda City-R (JDM) (Red Top Combax Cvcc N/A) Manual - Very Rear
Bought for $100, no reg or wof as i just wanted a hack. This thing went hard! It could even do 160kph, it would always bake over both wheels(cause the gearbox was stuffed as i found out later when it snapped) & even hold second gear while doing it as you can see in the photos. Car was taken to the wreckers once gearbox snapped.
Mods:
1. Custom Side Exit 1.5" Exhaust
2. Removed Bonnet
3. Removed Roof
4. Removed Air Filter
5. Removed Front & Rear Springs
6. City-E Carb Conversion

Test 1 - Try removing small tree with city (PASS)
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Test 2 - Shingle pile climb (FAIL)
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Test 3 - Burnouts/Skids (PASS)
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Test 4 - Red Line Check (PASS)
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Custom Roof Chop
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Custom Side Exit Pea Shooter
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Detailed Engine Bay :lol:
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THE THIRD CITY.
Honda City-E (Black Top N/A)
Bought for $1200 with 96,000 Genuine ks around 6 years ago (still own it now), it was mint until i rolled it on its side while racing around a go-cart track with a mate in his city. Was bought for a reliable work car rather than using the DC5.
Mods:
1. Rebuilt Engine after 120,000ks due to blowing it up while testing nitrous on it (cause i didn't care about theses cars at that time)
2. Mags - All sorts & sizes

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Sitting on 20's but just sitting in the guards, they were off my DC5 Type-R as pictured. The City was mint back then before i rolled it :lol:
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On 17's from my DC2 Type-R & B18c Type-R converted EG/EH Civic as pictured
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Rebuilt N/A Engine
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NOW THE FIRST OF THE TURBO CITY'S.
I bought this pile from a mate for $300 from memory cause he needed money badly so yeah i felt sorry for the guy but it had WOF & REG though but didn't come with the 15's. I bought it to use as a hack (a expensive one) but it was that much of a piece of crap that i couldn't even get it going properly to drive it to the river let alone thash it down the river so it sat under a tree for a few weeks until i could be bothered with it.

So with that said i started investigating the issues, after a hour or so of playing around under the bonnet i notice that most of the vacuum lines were hooked up wrong thanks to the very handy diagram on the under side of bonnet, not sure why the lines were wrong but once sorted i fired it up & it ran much smoother & had much better responce plus the random smoking had disappeared so driving around in it didn't look so bad.

After sorting those little issues out i noticed the car had potential as before it could hardly beat my N/A city so i played around with it over the weekends & fixed a couple other things like the dizzy & turbo which i had rebuilt & hi-flowed by Steve Murch at Motorsport Engineering up in Auckland. Now things were looking up for the pile that it was, i was really starting to enjoy driving it by this stage as the Turbo City bug started biting & not to long after that i had a 2.5" exhaust made up, different intake setup (bad idea behind radiator) & some Prelude injectors with boost up around 16psi.

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It was fun & running well but wanted more as i read these engines can handle over 20psi on stock internals so i whipped it up to 20psi but then started blowing head gaskets, 3 gaskets later i got engine rebuilt and added a aftermarket head gasket & ARP head studs, now it was proving reliable so time to take it to the drags, best time of the night was a 14.78@147.95kph but lost to a V8 Holden VY Commodore from memory, he backed off about 3/4 down the strip not to breakout so got the win.
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The first time i had ever dragged a City was that night & i got a 15.083@146.72 on the first pass, all night the car was quite consistant & only going as slow as a 15.238sec out of 13 runs that night, i was amped that night as i got a better time than my Type-R DC2 which only managed a flat 15 but the engine was tired & only managing 116wkw, the City at this stage was making 84wkw on 20psi.

In the process of getting the black beast running properly in time for the drag racing season i picked up another T1 City that i only bought for parts at that time cause i was desperate so i forked out $500 for it without WOF or REG & in pieces as the owner was half way through body repaires (RUST) but the plates where still in the system so was worth keeping. Here are some photos of this car when i first got it.

THE SECOND TURBO CITY.
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So after the first drag event i got into doing some more mods, custom cam grind done by Kelford Cams in Christchurch (not long after earthquake) & i sourced a T2 intake manifold & throttle body plus black box & ECU to run it correctly. Once these were put on the motor WOW what a difference it made, the cam freed up the power in the higher rpm range & the T2 intake also helped with flow no doubt, boost also was increased to 22-23psi so with that said it was off to the drags again & i managed a personal best of 14.131@155.57kph. This time the car wasn't so consistent with times in the high 14's & only 2 passes out of 9 in the 14.1sec braket that night, at that stage i started to think thats about all the car will do running on street tyres & no LSD so with the inconsistent times i think a 13.9 or even a 13.8 would be absolute tops for this stage of modification as my 60 foot times are rubbish & really restricting my ET's.
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Comparison photo of my personal best in my four door B18cR EG/EH Civic
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Cam that im running in the City - Cam Spec
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Now that i had finished drag racing the black City for now & started toying around with the purple B18cr Civic i thought it was time to sort that terrible paint job created by a previous owner, so with that said the City was stripped right down as rust was noticed in the engine bay as all city's get at some stage in there life but i took that opportunity to get it fixed properly so the car was sand blasted in the process & all rust, dents were taken care of & then the car was painted Satin Black as photos below show. Not long after i took the photos of the car finished i then sold it (without the 15" mags & aftermarket suspension) to 'Turdbo' who was a very happy person until some drunk driver decided they'd do some panel work on it with there car, top Auckland drivers!!!
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Oh & to the keen eye yes the plates are different, the previous plates were damaged & looked crap so i got new replacements, also i put in a bone stock T1 engine from a doner, the modified T1 engine finely made it into the Red N/A City-E which i hope to drag it this up coming season.


MANY MONTHS GO BY......................Until i got bored & had lots of spare parts that i had collected of the couple of years of owning Turbo City's so i decided to paint the White T1 City that i had bought for parts & get it up & running again, i mean 90% of the rust repaires had been done by the previous owner so all i had to do was tidy up the rear guards with some filler............some........i mean a lot hahaha :lol: & give it a good sanding & paint. This was the very first time i had attempted this & as i didn't have a welder let alone know how to weld steel plating in the rear guards i opted to grind out the rotten steel panel & bog it as it was just a crap car that i was learning from & i was going to use it for the next lot of drag racing that i had planned, after painting this car i now know i don't want to taking up a career in automotive painting or repaires, i hated every moment of it but it killed many weekends & was a great time filler. Once i got the car finished (like 8 months later) i put on a set of 15" BuddyClub P1's & my aftermarket suspension & ended up just putting the old tired T1 engine back in with zero engine mods only to sell a few months later cause i had to move out of the rental i was in & couldn't find another place with a decent shed & i still had 2 other car as well, i also sold the Purple Civic a few months before this as i wasn't using it & was just in the way.

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Its hard to believe its the same car but the photos do it justice as the panel & paint wasn't that great but i gave it my all, i sold this car at the beginning of this year (2014) & haven't made any progress on the Turbo converted N/A City that remains (the red one), its the last one i got. I will hopefully be drag racing it this season with a new mod which is a water/methanol kit which im about to setup in the next couple of weeks or so. The reason for this kit is that i do not use a intercooler & run 20psi plus boost at drag events so hopefully the kit keeps the engine safe with those high boost levels.

Anyway thats it for now, hopefully i'll have more posts of photos & info on the water/methanol kit early next year & maybe some better 1/4 mile times, till then.............
Last edited by KingCity on Mon Dec 29, 2014 8:28 am, edited 1 time in total.

KingCity
Forum Enthusiast
Posts: 268
Joined: Wed Aug 18, 2010 9:08 pm
Location: Waipukurau, New Zealand

Re: KingCity

Postby KingCity » Tue Oct 28, 2014 8:39 pm

Yay! Water/Meth Sprayer all up & working. Finally a update to a upgrade.

So i have finally installed the Water/Methanol Injection with good results, also i have fitted the Nitrous solenoids, fogger & lines but have yet to wire it in. I am going to be setting it up in a manner were nitrous is only used at low boost levels (10psi or less) without the addition of the water/meth being sprayed, above these boost levels the nitrous system will be disabled & the water/meth will engage & take over for all boost above 10psi. Reason for this you may be asking is due to nitrous & water/meth at the same time can lead into issues like running lean A/F ratios & or pooling/puddling, from what i've read its wise to avoid running together.

The other issue is running more than a safe 10psi boost with a 50hp nitrous shot (without water/meth) is likely to damage the engine so i won't change this hypothesis until the car gets on the dyno to check all systems are good then a couple pound more maybe added.

Reason for running both systems:
Well the main reason is to see which benifits the engine more - HIGH BOOST or LOW BOOST with nitrous, i will find out which is better once the car goes on the dyno. Water/Methanol is only in there as a suppressor for high boost levels as you will notice i do not run a intercooler plus from what i've reserched the water/meth can get intake temperatures cooler than a conventional intercooler without the headache of fitting a intercooler & piping.

The other reason is that nitrous is likely to be easlier to get the car off the line (1/4mile) better as thats where the car needs to benifit if im to get my times down, this is where nitrous is good as it builds boost quicker & can be used as a ANTI LAG option however this is not recommended as its hard on the engine & can limit engine life.

As some of you maybe asking why did i put the water/meth nozzle there rather than before the turbo for better intake/air density & spool, well its mainly due to me running a open port blowoff valve as its likely to spray water/meth all over the engine & engine bay when decelerating & changing Gears.

Here are a couple shots of my setup (nitrous wont be used for a while)

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KingCity
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Posts: 268
Joined: Wed Aug 18, 2010 9:08 pm
Location: Waipukurau, New Zealand

Re: KingCity

Postby KingCity » Mon Nov 17, 2014 5:01 pm

17.11.2014 - Test & thrash engine dropped a cylinder, number 3 most likely.
Last edited by KingCity on Sun Feb 08, 2015 8:29 am, edited 1 time in total.

KingCity
Forum Enthusiast
Posts: 268
Joined: Wed Aug 18, 2010 9:08 pm
Location: Waipukurau, New Zealand

Re: KingCity

Postby KingCity » Tue Nov 18, 2014 6:35 pm

Pulled engine out today after work, only took 2 hours to get it out, but the best i've done is 45minutes but that was with the car jacked up, axles out & exhaust unbolted already so thats kinda cheating. I drained the oil out to only find it had a litre left so in that 18k drive home once she started sounding like a Subie it pumped 3 litres of oil out the breather due to compression & combustion (if any) bypassing into the sump pressurizing the oil return gallaries which then did not return the oil back to the sump so had to go out the breather instead, i should have had a oil catch can as it would have made clean up easier.
Last edited by KingCity on Sun Feb 08, 2015 8:30 am, edited 1 time in total.

KingCity
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Posts: 268
Joined: Wed Aug 18, 2010 9:08 pm
Location: Waipukurau, New Zealand

Re: KingCity

Postby KingCity » Wed Nov 19, 2014 9:04 pm

So i got stuck into the strip down after work today & as i had anticipated number 3 cylinder had failed badly. Just so your up to date with the on going engine issue i had been having over the past few weeks well number 3 cylinder had been running hot, even under low boost levels (13psi) it was burning out spark plugs over a longer period of time, what i mean by burning them out is that the white ceramic/porcelain on the plug would blister over time & eventually crack & break off & some times melt the end of the finger which all points to over heating & denonation but i cannot find what is causing it, i tested spark plugs, leads, dizzy, ecu, fuel & injector flow with no issues there, i was informed there could be a vacuum leak pre-valve but that would be impossible when the engine runs a turbo & therefore is boosted so that leaves only one thing left which could be a sticking/bent valve but the valves look ok, anyway i will get the head pressure tested to be sure. Here are the horrible images of what detonation does.

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Last edited by KingCity on Sat Nov 22, 2014 7:51 pm, edited 2 times in total.

KingCity
Forum Enthusiast
Posts: 268
Joined: Wed Aug 18, 2010 9:08 pm
Location: Waipukurau, New Zealand

Re: KingCity

Postby KingCity » Wed Nov 19, 2014 10:02 pm

Some photos of what it was doing to spark plugs, only cylinder 3, the rest are like new.

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Beast260
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Re: KingCity

Postby Beast260 » Thu Nov 20, 2014 6:23 am

that'll buff out.... ;)

Man its rooted.

KingCity
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Posts: 268
Joined: Wed Aug 18, 2010 9:08 pm
Location: Waipukurau, New Zealand

Re: KingCity

Postby KingCity » Sat Nov 22, 2014 5:30 pm

Haha yeah maybe i could just chuck some high temp silicone sealant in there, she'll hold.

KingCity
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Posts: 268
Joined: Wed Aug 18, 2010 9:08 pm
Location: Waipukurau, New Zealand

Re: KingCity

Postby KingCity » Sat Nov 22, 2014 8:15 pm

Right, got my poor condition spare pistons out today to use as i didn't want to use my good ones as im only going to thrash this engine & chances are i'll break it again but when i was checking one of them i noticed a slight difference, the replacement piston does not have extra oiling holes like the ones that came out of the block so i checked my mint spare pistons that i didn't really want to use to see if they had the extra holes which they did & then i realised i had spare pistons from both T1 & T2 engines so with that said the T2 pistons use no oil holes like the T1's for some reason but it goes to show there are little differences between the two.

Buggered T1 Piston
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Poor condition T2 Piston
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T1 Piston number
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T2 Piston number
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My mint T1 replacement piston comparision, how it should have looked like haha.
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Hyperblade
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Re: KingCity

Postby Hyperblade » Wed Nov 26, 2014 6:55 am

KingCity wrote:Right, got my poor condition spare pistons out today to use as i didn't want to use my good ones as im only going to thrash this engine & chances are i'll break it again but when i was checking one of them i noticed a slight difference, the replacement piston does not have extra oiling holes like the ones that came out of the block so i checked my mint spare pistons that i didn't really want to use to see if they had the extra holes which they did & then i realised i had spare pistons from both T1 & T2 engines so with that said the T2 pistons use no oil holes like the T1's for some reason but it goes to show there are little differences between the two.


Now that is really interesting, something i've never seen brought up before, good spotting!

Looks like the T2 pistons have more metal underneath the oil ring, probably for the higher standard boost levels. (8 vs 12 psi)

KingCity
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Re: KingCity

Postby KingCity » Wed Nov 26, 2014 4:32 pm

Yeah that was my first thought that the T2 piston is likely to have more strength but thats under the oil ring & not so much to support compression ring loads. As for boost well i found all t1's i owned ran 11psi once wastegates were unseized/freed up. While we are on the topic of engine differences i also noticed (many many months ago) that the T2 used longer Cvcc valves which sit the valve head a little closer to the combustion chamber which could give a very small increasement in compression ratios & they also have the marking 'Z' whereas T1 Cvcc valve has the marking 'D' just like the non turbo Cvcc engine.

KingCity
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Re: KingCity

Postby KingCity » Sun Dec 21, 2014 11:24 am

Anyway as you may have guessed i had to strip the engine completely as number 3 cylinder sleeve was damaged & all other bores showed signs of vertical scratching so i sent block & head away to a specialist to get honed & checked. Block came back ok but its on its last legs as bores have been machined/honed in the past & therefore has no more clearance tolerance. As for the head well cylinders 1 2 & 4 came in good but 3 had damaged/deteriorated exhaust valve seat which may have played a part in the issue & the inlet valve had a hair line crack in it so these issues were fixed.

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Engine is all back together & running good, i ended up using the T2 pistons & found some near new rings that i had stashed away for some reason, its not a wise choice putting used rings back into a fresh engine as theres a chance of ring failure but as i was unsure how this engine is going to handle nitrous i thought it wont matter at this stage, turns out the rings are doing a fine job.

DYNO TIME: Got the car on the rolling road dyno on thursday which was a success apart from trying to get the boost controller stable at high boost levels. But before doing power runs the tuner & i needed to make sure everything was working right as we still weren't sure what had caused the dropped piston, what we found was some cross-firing between leads but that was only on cylinder 4 but other than that their wasn't anything else. We put on new leads & the cross-fire was resolved, the tuner done some low boost runs with no issues so the boost was incressed in stages until 20psi was reached. At 20psi the fueling ratios were very good & thats on stock T2 injectors which was a surprise but the fuel pressure regulator was bumped up a few pound to help, the tuner said theres still more left in those injectors which was a bit of a shock as i usally use B20 prelude ones for high boost runs however he also said at lower boost levels its running quite rich but that can be rectified by dropping the fuel pressure.

96wkw on 20psi & 98wkw with water/meth, that was with the T2 Turbo & 2.5inch exhaust & triple-flow muffler, the exact power figue as the 2.5inch exhaust without any mufflers which shows theres no restriction with a mufflered 2.5inch exhaust at 20psi. What this also shows is that the cam is making 12wkw more power on the same 20psi boost on stock cam which is ok i guess for a $400 cam fix up & performance grind but was hoping for more as anyone would. Last time i got 103wkw on 23psi with straight through 2.5inch exhaust on Prelude injectors but they were running rich even at that boost level, that was also with the water/meth spray. Not to far off the race spec T2's which were 104wkw at 22psi according to the forum.

As for the nitrous well it wasn't worth trying it on the dyno because 2 days before the dyno i tested the nitrous on the road, even though its only a 50hp shot it was way to aggressive for the engine, as soon as i hit the nitrous in second gear it went straight to the limiter & even 3rd gear it tries frying the wheels but the clutch started given way so i didn't try it again after that until i get some smaller jets to drop the power shot. I have never felt that sort of power from a city before, even when running 23psi it retains just enough grip in second not to fry the tyres so at a guess i would say its making around 120wkw with the nitrous which is too much for a completely stock block T1 engine. Just as a reference the stock T1 made a massive 55wkw at 11psi before any modifications about 4 years ago on the same dyno :lol: TAKE THAT 'TURBOCAB' HAHAHA.

KingCity
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Re: KingCity

Postby KingCity » Mon Dec 29, 2014 8:23 am

So i got some 30hp nitrous/fuel jets & have fitted & tested them with fairly good results however when nitrous is used it ups the boost pressure by 2-3 psi which the T2 turbo cant control so as the revs rise the boost is also rising which is abit annoying as its going upto 14psi & although the engine is handling it its going to be very hard on the stock bearings, ideally i only wanted to run a max of 10psi with the nitrous. Im not sure if i will run it on the strip like this but as it is i'd say its capable of a mid 13sec pass, its a very nice smooth power with a heavy pull feeling, at a guess i'd say its around the 110wkw area as its performing abit better than when i have run the car on 23psi w/out nitrous & that is just over 100wkw.

KingCity
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Location: Waipukurau, New Zealand

Re: KingCity

Postby KingCity » Sat Jan 03, 2015 6:04 pm

O.k. if anyone reading this was at the Masterton Motorplex drag strip today you may have noticed the red piece of crap city i drive was there racing & once again the car did not want to perform, the best time was a 14.9sec at a miserable 145kph on the second run so i gave up, i couldn't be bothered wasting my time with high 14s, im not sure what the hell is up with the car as i get it running sweet before these events. Im right at the boiling point with these cars & losing my patience for them, the way it seems to be going at the moment is that im moving 1 step forward & 2 steps backwards, im now starting to realise that i may never get a 13sec pass, maybe a 14.1 is the best i will ever do with these mods so thats really making me think of giving it up or take the easy option & do a engine conversion to get something less temperamental.

I think i may give it one more try, this time running low boost & nitrous to see if i can crack that 13sec barrier & then chuck in the towel so keep an eye out in the months to come as im likely to be selling up & move on as much as i hate to say it.

bitterberry
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Re: KingCity

Postby bitterberry » Sat Jan 03, 2015 10:00 pm

Sad to hear you're considering moving on from the city life considering how much knowledge and work you've done with the cars! Gotta remember they are small cars there is a limit to how much you can push them but it's great to see how far that is! If you do end up selling and moving on I'll probably be watching with a keen eye ;) hope you can get your 13 mate


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