Need Help - Speedo and Boost gauge dead
Need Help - Speedo and Boost gauge dead
Today I stopped my T2 on street under rain, when I come back and start the car again, the speedo and boost gauge has no respond anymore (speed at 0 and no respond at boost gauge). they both works during self check when the key turn to ignition. I checked the fuse box, all fuse are good. Where else should i check ???
- James
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Re: Need Help - Speedo and Boost gauge dead
Check someone didnt steal your turbo, and your gearbox.
Re: Need Help - Speedo and Boost gauge dead
hahaha go bigelboe ![Razz :P](./images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)
![Razz :P](./images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)
Re: Need Help - Speedo and Boost gauge dead
I sure the gearbox and turbo is still there~ :-/ I was still driving it in city last night. I guess something may loosen, as now the boost gauge works sometime, but the speedo... no respond at all, still keep at zero.
May I also ask a quick question? what range of revs is the power band of T2? and usually which point that T2 usually get the max torque?
May I also ask a quick question? what range of revs is the power band of T2? and usually which point that T2 usually get the max torque?
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Re: Need Help - Speedo and Boost gauge dead
Type City turbo II
Car name * type HONDA * E-FA
Transmission 5 fast manuals
Size * weight Total length (m) 3.420
Full-width (m) 1.625
Total height (m) 1.470
Wheel base (m) 2.220
Tread (m) Front 1.400
The rear 1.390
Roadspace (m) 0.160
Vehicle weight (kg) 735 (745)
Riding in a car fixed capacity (name) 5
Size inside passenger compartment (m) Length 1.615
Width 1.310
Height 1.175
Engine Engine type ER (turbo attaching)
Engine type CVCC * water cooling serial 4 cylinder horizontal ranging OHC
(Unleaded gasoline use)
Combustion room type Secondary combustion room attaching wedge shape
Valve gear Cam shaft 3 pal Bu belt driving over 1
Entire aerodynamic volume displacement (cm 3 ) 1,231
Inside diameter x distance (mm) 66.0×90.0
Compression ratio 7.6
Fuel feeder type Electronic fuel injection system (PGM-F1)
Fuel tank capacity (L) 41
Lubricating system Force system
Lube capacity (L) 4
Ignition system Point less * transistor system
Efficiency The highest output (PS/rpm) 110/5,000
Largest torque (kg-m/rpm) 16.3/3,000
Gradeability (tan theta) 0.66
Fuel consumption rate (km/L) 10 mode travelling
(Ministry of Transport examination value) 17.6
60km/h fixed area travelling
(Ministry of Transport notification value) 27.4
Minimum turning radius (m) 4.6 (Body 5.0)
Braking braking distance (m) time of initial velocity 50km/h 14.0
Transmission Clutch type Dry veneer diaphragm
Transmission operation system Floor * change system
Speed change ratio 1st gear 2.916
2nd gear 1.764
3rd gear 1.181
4th gear 0.846
5 speed 0.655
Retreat 2.916
Deceleration ratio 4.066
Other things Leader type Rack & pinion system
Tire 185/60 R13 80H
Type * type of main brake Front Hydraulic vacuum assistor attaching ventilated disk
The rear Hydraulic vacuum assistor attaching leading trailing (PCV attaching)
Suspension system Front ??????? * strut system independent suspension
The rear ??????? * strut system independent suspension
(Coil separated system)
Car name * type HONDA * E-FA
Transmission 5 fast manuals
Size * weight Total length (m) 3.420
Full-width (m) 1.625
Total height (m) 1.470
Wheel base (m) 2.220
Tread (m) Front 1.400
The rear 1.390
Roadspace (m) 0.160
Vehicle weight (kg) 735 (745)
Riding in a car fixed capacity (name) 5
Size inside passenger compartment (m) Length 1.615
Width 1.310
Height 1.175
Engine Engine type ER (turbo attaching)
Engine type CVCC * water cooling serial 4 cylinder horizontal ranging OHC
(Unleaded gasoline use)
Combustion room type Secondary combustion room attaching wedge shape
Valve gear Cam shaft 3 pal Bu belt driving over 1
Entire aerodynamic volume displacement (cm 3 ) 1,231
Inside diameter x distance (mm) 66.0×90.0
Compression ratio 7.6
Fuel feeder type Electronic fuel injection system (PGM-F1)
Fuel tank capacity (L) 41
Lubricating system Force system
Lube capacity (L) 4
Ignition system Point less * transistor system
Efficiency The highest output (PS/rpm) 110/5,000
Largest torque (kg-m/rpm) 16.3/3,000
Gradeability (tan theta) 0.66
Fuel consumption rate (km/L) 10 mode travelling
(Ministry of Transport examination value) 17.6
60km/h fixed area travelling
(Ministry of Transport notification value) 27.4
Minimum turning radius (m) 4.6 (Body 5.0)
Braking braking distance (m) time of initial velocity 50km/h 14.0
Transmission Clutch type Dry veneer diaphragm
Transmission operation system Floor * change system
Speed change ratio 1st gear 2.916
2nd gear 1.764
3rd gear 1.181
4th gear 0.846
5 speed 0.655
Retreat 2.916
Deceleration ratio 4.066
Other things Leader type Rack & pinion system
Tire 185/60 R13 80H
Type * type of main brake Front Hydraulic vacuum assistor attaching ventilated disk
The rear Hydraulic vacuum assistor attaching leading trailing (PCV attaching)
Suspension system Front ??????? * strut system independent suspension
The rear ??????? * strut system independent suspension
(Coil separated system)
- James
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Re: Need Help - Speedo and Boost gauge dead
Your speedo cable could have come out of your gearbox, hence me saying someone might have stolen your gearbox. Open the bonnet and have a look at the gearbox above where the driveshafts go into it, there should be a cable coming out of it.
If that is it then it will be an elxectrical fault in the dash, the fact that both your speedo and boost have gone at the same time I would assume it would be an electrical fault.
If that is it then it will be an elxectrical fault in the dash, the fact that both your speedo and boost have gone at the same time I would assume it would be an electrical fault.
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Re: Need Help - Speedo and Boost gauge dead
Correct me if wrong but on the T2's the speedo is mechancial so the cable has snapped or unclipped it self at the speedo or gearbox.
With the boost gauge will properly be like mine intermiten, loose wire at the back of the speedo housing. Best to get a real boost gauge hooked up.
With the boost gauge will properly be like mine intermiten, loose wire at the back of the speedo housing. Best to get a real boost gauge hooked up.
- James
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Re: Need Help - Speedo and Boost gauge dead
Yeah the speedo is mechanical to the sensor in the dash, where it gets converted to the LCD display
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Re: Need Help - Speedo and Boost gauge dead
Thats only with the T1 citys, Should affect the analogue T2's.
- James
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Re: Need Help - Speedo and Boost gauge dead
Nah it was only the very late model t2s that had analog speedos, '86 models only I think, the rest had that funky LCD system.
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Re: Need Help - Speedo and Boost gauge dead
My T2 is a 85 and has the analogue speedo, only seen the analogue speedos on the T2 I've seen.
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Re: Need Help - Speedo and Boost gauge dead
[quote author=Muppet link=board=GEN;num=1129968982;start=0#10 date=10/24/05 at 19:18:26]My T2 is a 85 and has the analogue speedo, only seen the analogue speedos on the T2 I've seen.[/quote]
Bigelboe is correct, maybe yours has had a switch?
All 3 of our T2's have digital speedos all are around the 83 mark
Bigelboe is correct, maybe yours has had a switch?
All 3 of our T2's have digital speedos all are around the 83 mark
Re: Need Help - Speedo and Boost gauge dead
my 85 t2 has the digi speedo
but the 86 t2 powered cab has the analogue one from its original t2 donor car
i mutch prefer the digi one
wkthyk have you checked the speedo cable?you may have to get under the car to check it
but the 86 t2 powered cab has the analogue one from its original t2 donor car
i mutch prefer the digi one
wkthyk have you checked the speedo cable?you may have to get under the car to check it
Re: Need Help - Speedo and Boost gauge dead
that's the problem for me now, I need to bring it to mechanic shop to fix as my car is parked in carspot and the space does not allow me to go under the car and look. Now the boost gauge is working (but I don't know why).
- James
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Re: Need Help - Speedo and Boost gauge dead
You have a loose connection in your instrument cluster, its reasonably straight forward to pull it out, then you just resolder all the joins and check all the wires are connected
So yeah, pull the board out, I think the speedo is a seperate little unit, get a solder sucker, take off all the solder and resolder the joins, should take you a couple hours to have the instruments out, resoldered and back in at most.
If this doesn't fix your problems I would be very very surprised.
Also for the speedo cable thing, you dont need to get under the car, you just have a look from under the bonnet, Ill take a picture of where it goes into the gearbox tomorrow.
Remove the outer casing and inspect for cracked solder joints (dry joints). Even though there may be no visible dry joints some may still need attention.
It would be good to have:
Soldering Iron
Good quality solder
Solder sucker or Solder removal tape
PCB cleaner / solvent (Jaycar, electrical outlet)
Multimeter
remove the old solder (as much as possible) and clean the board with the solvent. Re Solder all of the joints.
So yeah, pull the board out, I think the speedo is a seperate little unit, get a solder sucker, take off all the solder and resolder the joins, should take you a couple hours to have the instruments out, resoldered and back in at most.
If this doesn't fix your problems I would be very very surprised.
Also for the speedo cable thing, you dont need to get under the car, you just have a look from under the bonnet, Ill take a picture of where it goes into the gearbox tomorrow.
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