CityTurbo.com

Don't underestimate the cost. To give you a rough feel, we  bought Charles body & engine, mags, parts; and rebuilt the engine using parts Charles supplied in the bundle. Then the fun begins - extractor & dump pipe, turbo plumbing (inlet and pressure side) copperhead coolant lines & braid...

You have checked the bleed for air bubbles on the thermostat housing? See my item in the info base.

Hunt is air bleed, over rich fuel supply or air bubbles in thermostat housing on large proportion of occasions.

John T

Nathan This question doesn't belong in this section of the site, you ned to post such stuff in "General". (I expect one of the moderators will move it.) But to answer your question, see "JohnT & CT" in the members details section. The turbo engines go into a Civic body just f...

Henry

We used the place in Edwardstown (CV & Drive Shaft Centre) for replacement (recon?) shafts for our Civic / City Turbo. They seem pretty darn good, no noise or clicking despite a number of ferocious wheel spinning take offs now and then.

Regards

John

We have the Civic / City Turbo insured with Shannons, for third party which costs $290 or so per annum. If we damage it we'll get a "new" body and rebuild the mechanicals into that.
 

John

Current Jazz is also a bit of a mover with the 7 speed transmission. Must put it alongside the Civic at Mallala some time.

John

Traction is the big problem. With our Civic you get a lot of power steer in 1st at high power output and despite the rather large tyres the wheels spin quite easily -  and the set up is simply a fairly nicely ported top end, balanced engine with Nugen bolts in big end, high tensile studs in the head...

I would try checking a couple of key things: 1)  Does the engine crank over with a fair bit of energy? If yes, main electrics are probably OK. 2)  Are you sure you have sparks? 3) Fuel - does the fuel pump run when you turn the ignition on? If so, main relay is probably ok as it runs the fuel pump. ...

Colza I think the engine needs a solid non vacuum leak plumbing system more than it needs advance / retard, so until you get the diaphram replaced just take off the vacuum hose from the leaky diaphram and plug it up. That should stop the hunting. If you can't see anything moving when the idle up cli...

Civic_killer I have a distributor spare if you still need one. Henry recently borrowed it to check out some issues with his City and sent me an email saying: John, your distributor has been tested. It's had a bit of a hard life, the centrifugal advance mechanism operates but could do with a clean ou...

The ECU should have an EPROM that contains the code (data plus program) or at least the table of operating paramaters (temp, O2 etc) versus fuel quantity needed to be injected. Basically you swap over the EPROM. I haven't looked, but I'd be very surprised if the EPROM wasn't in a plug in chip socket...

I checked out the boost versus lag yesterday, on boost from 2,500 with a GT17 - and decent boost at 3,000 (all with open throttle as our gauge in post throttle) Only about 1lb at 2,500 rising steeply to 10 plus at 3,000 (and we're dialled back so max pressure is 10 or so at the moment) We've got a l...

Colza You should be able to pick up a moderately good Civic rolling body for a few hundred - so why bother fixing the bent one? The hunting you describe is possibly partly the idle up box coming on and off, it is sensitive to: Headlights Radiator fan Rev range System volts? It is basically a bit of ...

If you need a T1 turbo, I have one that Henry just had a good look at. Very reasonable price. (Yep, moderators,  I know, this is general, not "for sale")

John

Gents Unless you are seriously driving in hill climbs etc, if you have a working air con, you (a) save fuel!! and (b) have less aerodynamic drag on a hot day (window shut, not open ....) Certain amount of bull shit, me thinks, about a 10kg difference. That is 10 litre of fuel, a decent sized brief c...