CityTurbo.com

Hey guys,

After I drive my car hard for a bit, the clutch starts to slip like crazy, but if i leave it for a while then try again it wont slip until I drive it hard for a bit again.

I am running stock boost (go the enlarged wastegate)and a stock t2 clutch plate with an uprated pressure plate and pretty light flywheel.

I have checked the adjustment of the clutch cable and there is 20mm of play at the pedal which is what my Haynes says to have.

What do you guys think is happening?

How was your flywheel lightened?

Took meat off the engine side. You know how it gets thicker from the edge towards the middle, it was lathed the same thickness from the outside right to the middle. The clutch side wasn't touched.

i get the same problem and all i can put it down to is my pressure plate it gets hot and looses tension which makes my clutch slip

hmnn thats an idea. Well whatever it is I think Im gonna get a brass button clutch plate for it, seems like a good clutch to me, handles decent power and doesn't need excessive clamping pressure to work properly.

Brass button will chew your flywheel out quickly.

Ah, so that is the tradeoff with brass button. So what do you reccomend matty? I dont really want to go to a masively tough pressure plate, what about Kevlar?

how olds your pressure and clutch plate....

Clutch plate is a couple of months of easy driving old, was brand new. And pressure plate is about 3 years old, and was a heavy duty one that we got with the sintered bronze clutch.

its your new one tats slipping?! thats wierd...

I'm not 100% of their mechanics really, but if its had easy driving it shouldnt be glazed or tired already...

my clutch was replaced about mid 2004, I found it slipped when coming on boost usually more noticeable the faster I was travelling when boost came on...they simply heat treated (I'd imagine the fingery bits) it for more tension...the cable seems to stretch a little every fews months so I click the adjuster round and its quick on the grab again...
urmmm im out of ideas...any oil leaks from the main seal bit there into the bellhousing thingy?!

would the slimmed up flywheel change its heat holding ability maybe, ie , heats up quicker?! I doubt thatd make that amount of difference.

The whole engine was rebuilt an re-sealed a few thousand kays ago so I hope its not the main seal.

Its only an issue when its hot, when its cold i can get plenty of grip, enough to smoke up my 205's in first.

I think it might be a few factors, like the thin flywheel heating up quicker and the engine making quite a bit mroe than stock power and still only running a standard organic clutch. Its probably fading like your brakes do when they get hot.

    You already got the point.  The more burnouts you do the faster you wear the clutch disc, flywheel face and the pressure plate, and be careful, the thrust bearing could break.

I don't do burnouts, I treat my clutch with the utmost respect and it still slips. I nana it at every shift, and I never dump it.  I have only started the occasional wheelspin after my clutch has started slipping because I have to get new tires for my warrrantnext month anyway.

The flywheel face was machined at the same time the new clutch plate was installed. I think it must be just too much torque for the stock plate.

youre right i reckon.. the combo of machined standard flywheel (having less mass to diffuse heat)and organo clutch.. does it slip if you dont use the clutch after youve been givin it a bit but still driving... what about just a metal composite plate(like the metal pads) and see if you can get a one tonner pressure plate

Yeah I think quite a range of plates are available because the 84+ Si civic has the same clutch plate but different pressure plate. So I might have to get my pressure plate strengthened. I have a dude on the same service crew as me that owns a brake and clutch shop so Ill have a chat to him at the next rally I go to.