CityTurbo.com

Been playing around with a few different thing for tuning the city and this is the easiest method iv found so far.

Requires:
Rising rate fuel pressure reg.
1X 1way check valve.
Manual boost controller.
Fuel cut defender (pot type recommended)
Vac pipe.

First you want to hook up your fuel cut defender, The pot (potometer) type is best since it doesn't just keep the voltage the same instead it stretches it (which would be unwanted with no tuning since then youll start getting lean at 14psi and stay lean until it reaches fuel cut. But with the raising rate fuel pressure reg its good because it removes some fuel and still lets you keep the cut off.
It is installed ether by the ecu (light blue wire) or by the map sensor on the same wire.

Next you want to install the raising rate fuel pressure regulator.
This is installed on the fuel return after the stock regulator.

Then you want to hook the manual boost controller up the the vac line for the raising rate fuel pressure reg.



Bleed more boost off with the boost controller to give less fuel.
The check valve is there so you dont bleed any vac off.
The 3 way splitter also has a restrictor in it and it came with the boost controller.


I have the fuel cut defender set to 21psi.
with out any added fuel it starts getting lean at 13psi.
With the fuel pressure reg running with out any air bleed it gets very rich between 6psi and 13psi. Then it quite rich up till 16psi.
With a small amount of air bleed (3 clicks) it fixes the rich spots since it lowers the boost reading a lot when there low pressure. But its still a bit rich between 13 and 16psi. But from there till 20psi its spot on.

Still doing more testing so will post up more details later on.

This is excellent work man. One question tho, what rate is your rising rate regulator? I was under the impression you could get different rate ones, or is that the thing thats adjustable with the nut?

Its the thing adjustable with the nut. With no tension its 1:1
Have done some more playing with it today and have sorted it out so its perfect every where but want to finish it up tomorrow on the dyno to check the higher gears with out braking speed limits before posting my results.

Here are the out come of today testing.

1st,2nd and 3rd gear were perfect AFR between 11.2-11.6.
But 4th was a bit leaner and 5th was even leaner.

So opened the air bleeder another 2 clicks which made 2,3,4 perfect but 1st is a bit rich (10.9) and 5th gets a bit lean (12.2) towards 4300rpm+. Thats on 20psi. (thats a total of 5 clicks from closed no idea how much air its bleeding but you can blow though it with out too much effort)

8-13 PSI is quite rich tho (10.5) once I put another 2 clicks on it but iv got a plan to fix that but sticking a ball bearing and 12psi spring in the T 3 way splitter. This should keep the keep the raising rate regulator from adding fuel until 12psi.

Peak power is 102KW @ 4905rpm on 20psi.
The torque is amazing tho and has got me worried about how much power the axels can take.
Air temps raise quite quickly tho and maxed out at 51C after 30 secs what.

Next things on the list for basic mods is competently replace the TB with single larger one and replace the PGM-FI intake bit with a much larger bit.

Awesome results man. That power is damn impressive, especially at such a low RPM!!! The torque must be insane. Thats basically bang on 150Hp at the engine isn't it?

I have a 2.5" PGMFI replacement part here that you are welcome to.

My car is getting closer to being together, once it is I will join you in experimenting with this, I have a wideband driver, just need to buy a sensor.

If the axles are nice and straight, like they should be in a stock car, they will take a pretty serious amount of torque. Remember Ronnie Lims 10 second integra? Im pretty sure that was running standard B series axles, at around 800Hp

At 16psi peak power is higher in the rpm 5100rpm. So thats telling me there a restriction in the intake. Wideband sensors are quite cheap now days, Ones Im using are only $120 off trademe.

Also bit of sad new is that the clutch is slipping quite a bit so guess Im going to have to get a higher rated pressure plate. Strange thing is its fine on the dyno which is a 500kg roller.

The restriction in the intake could be the turbo couldn't it? The outlet of the turbo is smaller than the throttle body.

Any news on a higher rated pressure plate?

I've been thinking, water-meth injection could be a neat solution to extra fueling, and charge cooling. Cheap to add one or two extra injectors pre-throttle.

Outlet on my turbo is slightly larger, Altho the exhaust side is still very small.
Haven't done any more since I need to sort the clutch first.

Boss was talking to me the other day suggesting that water-meth injection would be very good for the city. And he is willing to help me with a good setup since he has done it on some 1L turbo on 35psi 30 years ago. Cant remember what he said the car was tho.

How much did you want for the replacement pgm-fi part?

Water-meth should be good, really cool that charge down so its as dense as possible, which will increase the volumetric efficiency, and we need all the help we can with that because of the tiny valves.

With regards to replacing the throttle body, which I think is a good idea, how were you planning on dealing with the CVCC injector?

I need to have a bit more of a think about what I want to do with my engine before I get rid of the intake thing, I may want it for an intermediate setup. Ill think about it this weekend and let you know next week.

Was going to get one made that still keeps the CVCC.
Pritty much have 1 TB which is 60mm then it goes down to where it splits off for the CVCC and the main intake.

But still working with some designs im drawing up but nothing is set in stone yet.