water pump replacement

Post whatever you like in here but try to keep it Honda City related!
KiwiCatherine
Forum Participant
Posts: 17
Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2008 6:33 pm
Location: Chch New Zealand
Contact:

water pump replacement

Postby KiwiCatherine » Mon Oct 31, 2011 1:50 pm

Hi folks, I have a 1986 City cabriolet, non turbo. I am in Christchurch New Zealand. My waterpump was on the way out so thought I'd replace it before it let me down.

I undid the 4 wee bolts and it came loose but would not extract from the engine block, seems to be binding on an overhang from the plastic timing belt cover. Is that right ? Do I have to undo the plastic timing belt cover as well ? I undid the 10mm head hex screw on the rearward side of it (just above the waterpump) but the cover flexes a wee bit but is still tight, I can just barely see a similar sized bolthead on the forward side but it's pretty well down and inaccessable

My car has air cond (which only just stopped working) so the compressor is in the way a bit, although I undid it and can move it out of the way a little bit on the flexible hoses

The only manual I have is an SP brand home workshop book for the 1973 Honda Civic, which was the closest I could get, and I know they're a bit different in places. I can't seem to find or get to work the manuals associated with this forum. If someone can send me a direct link to just the waterpump removal part ?

IF anyone's in Christchurch NZ I'll PAY you to come help ! My car's in bits and I've had to steal my elderly mum's car for a few days so I can get to and from college (as a mature age student, I have the key, so I have to be in early to open up)

you can send me a personal email which should be attached to this page ASAP, please !

aja540i
Forum Participant
Posts: 17
Joined: Fri Feb 04, 2011 4:03 am
Location: NEW ZEALAND
Contact:

Postby aja540i » Tue Nov 01, 2011 3:55 am

Hi, from memory one of the bolts that looks like it holds the plastic cover goes right through the waterpump as well, try taking the plastic cover off and the pump should come out.

mikey_nz
Forum Participant
Posts: 48
Joined: Mon Sep 01, 2008 10:40 am

im in chch

Postby mikey_nz » Wed Nov 02, 2011 1:09 pm

im in chch

mikey_nz
Forum Participant
Posts: 48
Joined: Mon Sep 01, 2008 10:40 am

txt me

Postby mikey_nz » Wed Nov 02, 2011 1:17 pm

txt me il help 0278297263

KiwiCatherine
Forum Participant
Posts: 17
Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2008 6:33 pm
Location: Chch New Zealand
Contact:

seems to be fixed

Postby KiwiCatherine » Wed Nov 02, 2011 5:23 pm

My neighbour helped me, my waterpump has now been replaced, test run, the heater is cold, and some of the small diameter ("heater") waterpipes remain cold, even when engine left running long enough that water gauge has warmed up and top and bottom rad hoses both warm.

I think it just needs burping of an air-lock. so will have a go at that tomorrow afternoon after I get home

A more thorough posting will be made later

thanks all

KiwiCatherine
Forum Participant
Posts: 17
Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2008 6:33 pm
Location: Chch New Zealand
Contact:

Re: water pump replacement

Postby KiwiCatherine » Sat Jun 03, 2017 2:49 pm

Previously Posted to Cityturbo.com forum Wed Nov 02 2011 8.44pm, Post subject Waterpump Replacement, how to guide here. But then had trouble finding that version. Here is a slightly re-edited version

Here is how it worked for me, 1986, non-turbo, Japanese import, Cabriolet.

Open Bonnet, remove battery lead for safety, open front grill, looking down from above, loosen alternator bolt. Jack left side of car, just a wee bit so as to give you more wriggle-room, from underneath (leave the tyre touching the ground), loosen lower alternator bolt slightly, then move the alternator rearwards so the rubber belt becomes loose.

Remove aircleaner from carb (to give more room to work generally, be careful as to whether the nuts come off the top, or the entire screw comes out from the threading in the carb body, as there are washers under the bottom half ENSURE NOTHING FALLS DOWN INSIDE THE CARB'S THROAT.

Note also a rubber seal in between the air cleaner and carb body, also you'll have to wiggle off several hoses so be sure to replace them all when you're finished), now the belt is off, you can wiggle the waterpump pulley and get a feeling if the bearing is worn out, loosen off the air cond pump belt tensioner and then remove the one bolt at front and 2 bolts at rear which hold the air cond pump onto the big cast steel bracket

There's also a little tin plate pulley-cover for the air cond pump's pulley which will also come off (the tin cover comes off NOT the pulley ! ) . Wiggle the air cond pump out of the way a bit, you can leave the hoses connected and have a second person hold it a bit out of the way.

Place a small block of wood on a jack on the ground under the sump area, right underneath the main crankshaft pulley, and place that under the bottom of the crankshaft pulley, ensure that the wood cushions the bottom of the pulley from the jack, bring it up just enough to "take the weight".

Now undo the 2 bolts at the rear of the engine (14 mm spanner), the two 12 mm (?) bolts in the middle (looking down from above) and the one long 14mm (?) bolt at the front (maybe 2 bolts and my car was always missing one ever since I've had it ?)

NOTE THAT THIS BIG CAST STEEL BRACKET, AS WELL AS BEING THE AIR COND MOUNTING, MAY ALSO BE PART OF THE MAIN LEFT SIDE ENGINE MOUNT as well as being the carrrier for the air cond pump.

(If your car never had air cond, the bracket/engine mount may be smaller and a different shape, and the procedure might be slightly different and you might not have to loosen it.)

Have your buddy hold the air cond pump and then you can wiggle out the steel mount. Easier to remove pulley off waterpump NOW. wedge a wee bar like a 125mm socket set extension through a hole in the waterpump pulley and undo in turn all 3 bolts 10mm spanner needed.

Remove all 4 of the 10mm bolts which hold the waterpump to the block (NOTE as you loosen it, coolant will escape, using a clean bowl underneath can allow you to capture most of the coolant which you may be able to re-use if it is clean etc), undo the two 10mm nuts that hold the engine top rocker-cover in place and wiggle it up a few mm.

Undo the two 10 mm bolts which secure the plastic upper half of the rubber timing belt cover, the screw towards the rear of the engine is easier to access than the screw to the front, carefully lift out the timing cover top half, by raising the rocker cover up a few millimetres only , extract the waterpump, pull out the waterpump rearmost first, because towards its front it has a sorta 30mm long "tongue" which tucks in behind the plastic lower timing cover. the plastic lower timing cover will flex slightly allowing the old pump to be extracted.

Ensure the surface is clean and your new waterpump came with a new rubber seal, refit the new pump, tucking that "tongue" in as before (note if you look at a new pump, you'll see what I mean) , screw the 4 pump screws in (10mm spanner) and refit the upper plastic timing cover, note 2 rubber dust seal things should be located so that they go in grooves in the plastic cover (they should remain on the engine-block, but may need some repositioning to go into the cover's grooves,) then re-fit the plastic upper timing belt cover mount screws (two times 10mm) tighten the rocker cover nuts,

NOW refit the pulley onto the waterpump, fit the engine mount (NOTE take care to correctly loop the air con belt), remove jack and wood from below main crank pulley, fit the air cond pump, (note the 125mm long wire from under the air cond pump which has a male bullet connector which connects into a female in the loom in the left hand inner mudguard area) and fit both rubber belts and adjust tension for air cond and alternator-waterpump belts , refit air cleaner , refill with antifreeze coolant, and re-attach battery lead, start and test for leaks.

NOTE my heater now runs cold even when engine's run for long enough, idling in garage, to be warm, I think there is an air-lock in the system and will try burping the heater hoses tomorrow. (later tried to loosen the little bleed nipple but it was stuck, so to avoid forcing it, I burped the nearest heater hose, seems ok now) Note that my new waterpump was in stock at REPCO and cost NZ $60, with a small discount for showing my AA auto club card.

I enquired at another major auto parts chain (who I shall not name, but their name indicates that they should be especially cheap) and they could only supply the pump if I ordered it in, and the price would have been just over NZ $ 120, so it pays to shop around.

NOTE now a few days later, I have re-edited this slightly, to make it the best guide possible. I hope this information makes things easier for folks. Kia Kaha.
_________________
Catherine
Cabriolet 1986 (non-turbo)
Christchurch
New Zealand


Return to “General”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 11 guests