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Postby Super//turbo_mk1 » Fri Jul 26, 2013 10:56 am

Hi :wink:
I'm Ratema, from Auckland New Zealand.

I just brought a blue mk1 city turbo 83':
This is it last year but still looks the same but with red line on bumpers and only one wing mirror lol
I'll upload my own photos soon.

I've been slowly tidying it up over last 2 weeks. It was a bit of a mess when i got it, I don't think the last owner ever cleaned.
I've blacked out all the plastic trim, replaced the red striping, removed boyracer stickers lol, given it a good clean inside and out.
The interior is pretty crap, seats are ripped and faded, carpet is stained, black plastic is faded and patchy.
It's been re-painted, but it was a home job so is very rough but looks ok from far away. I'm goin to cut asnd polish it but the shine mite show up the dents and imperfections.

In the engine bay:
I've removed the top mount intercooler installed by a previous owner because was getting zero cold air in its location, and made it very difficult to access the throttle unit.

All the intake piping was loose and had oil seeping from it, so I've cleaned it out and re-tightened everything. Which had the unexpected effected of changing the sound of the blowoff valve which had original been making a flutter sound but now makes the standard waaa-tisshh. so i assume it was leeking.

I hope to address the oil in the intake with a catch can.

The engine has hunting and idle problems, I have tried various methods to fix this including the method mentioned here:
There was no response from this adjustment.
BUT that was before I noticed 2 leaking tubes from what looks like the vacuum diaphragm. I've replaced these, so I'll try the test again.
I'm also unable to adjust the idle speed as this screw is jammed, and I'm unsure which one is the idle-up adjuster. There is a screw on the right under the throttle body with a shroud around it but of course this wont turn either. This dosent sound like the screw described here thouhg:

The only method which seems to work (which was shown to me by the previous owner) is to pinch this tube:

This drops the revs and stops the hunting. So i clamped it.
But now the car seems to be loosing power at low revs and running rough under part throttle, which could be due to the clamped tube.
I'm going to try the auto choke test again, and see if that has any results.

My major concern at the moment is the clutch
which slips on full boost past 3000rpm. This really sucks because I still haven't even felt proper boost (its standard 11psi) or been able to run the car above 3000rpm. I want to know what this engine actually goes like :x gaaahhh frustrating.

So I've been looking at exedy clutches:

HCK-6798: which i assume is the standard pre 84 clutch
But will this handle higher boost (13-14 psi)?
And will it genuinely fit

HCk-6342HD which is stornger obviously
I've heard this is for the turbo2 so may not fit mu turbo1

Sorry for the long rant
I will make separate topics for the hunting and clutch issues
Just thought I'd put everything out there.

Any helpfull comments or discussion would be greatly appreciated
Thankyou :mrgreen:

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Posts: 54
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Re: Super//turbo_mk1

Postby dionallott123 » Fri Aug 16, 2013 10:13 am

hey there


im in auckland to :) if you want to meet up sometime !

Dion :)

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Re: Super//turbo_mk1

Postby dionallott123 » Fri Aug 16, 2013 10:16 am

also can you post up a pick of
viewtopic.php?t=10 ==>

here are a number of adjustments that can be made to the throttle body, it is easy to get mixed up as to which is which.

The idle adjustment is a small brass set screw on top of the coolant heated section at the back (firewall side) of the throttle body. This is the only proper way to adjust the idle speed.


2)Idle up adjuster:
The idle up solenoid actuates a vacuum diaphram, which then drives a throttle stop on the driver's side of the throttle body. This has a small philips head screw, set in a shroud, that adjusts the amount of idle up you get when the idle up controller kicks in. To adjust, turn on the headlights, the idle up relay should kick in, and adjust the screw so that the rpms are no more than 1100 to 1200. If you screw this in too far, the idle up box cuts out, makingthe engine hunt up and down.

3) Throttle plate stop

At the rear of the throttle body there is a screw, set in the factory and yellow painted to stop you adjusting it. This screw is only to prevent wear on the throttle plate, and should not be used to adjust slow idle revs. It should just touch as the throttle is shut down, allowing the throttle plate to fully close, yet taking the force of the mechanism shutting down. Use of this screw to adjust slow idle will result in poor slow running stability.

Hunting - revs go up and down by themselves:
The common causes of hunting seem to be:
1) Vacuum leak (post throttle) such as a cracked vacuum line to MAP sensors.
2) Worn or misaligned throttle plates (unlikely to be seen unless you pull the throttle body apart)
3) Air bubble in the top of the cylinder head coolant exit. Let air & small amount of coolant out of the bleed nipple to eliminate any air near the TW sensor.
4) Poorly adjusted idle up mechanism (idle up clicks in and out)

John T

===> like what screws to adjust ! im probs just going to recon my motor and get new gaskets and shit :)
much faster and wont die ever :)

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Re: Super//turbo_mk1

Postby 4wdskd » Sat Apr 26, 2014 12:05 pm

hi there are you currently selling this car on trademe?

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